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  1. #31
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by titanse05 View Post
    Gotta get either the short hybrid or short thin lever for the weak side but other than that, nice build.

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4
    I run the short hybrid, it's a great lever if you choke up on the grip.
    DEUTERONOMY 6:5
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  3. #33
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    Oh okay, yeah I get what you guys mean now. That's a pretty innovative move there. Assembly looks much much easier too.

    Found a video in case anyone else wanted to see:


  4. #34
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    Ok fellas. I have a range report. The weather here turned bad (its like freezing outside and the wind is around 30mph) so I actually broke down and paid someone to let me shoot at a gun range. It was a local (30 minutes away) 100 yard indoor range. I went there because I didn't want to deal with the weather and because I could get a 'reading' without a lot of outside variables.

    I took a couple shots... clicked the scope here and there... took another and I was 'fairly' on zero maybe 5 shots in. I fiddled a little more then I took some shots.... I did it three times in a row... 3 times I got 1" groups. They have little cameras set up so you can see your target via video feed. At 100 yards you honestly cannot see a 1" spot with a 4X scope. I was using the larger outer rings that were more bold in color to be able to estimate an aiming point. But I reeled in the target and inspected it, and yep... 1" groups on three distinct clean targets using only 3 rounds each.

    My ammo was off the shelf at Academy sporting goods Hornaday .223 55gr FMJ/BT ammo.

    Later on after my 15 minutes of glory I shot a little less than a magazine full I pulled the trigger and a shot went like a foot left. I was like what the $&&## is going on here?! Is my scope broken? What happened? I tried it again. Same thing. By this time I had been at the range about an hour so my time was up... I had mixed feelings. I was happy that I was able to achieve 1" at a measured and confirmed 100 yard range, not once, but three times in a row.... but I was also frustrated and wondering what was going wrong?

    On my way out the door it dawned on me to take a look at my gun... so I asked to borrow a table and fortunately I had a few little tools with me... and when I got to checking if everything was tight... the front allen screws on my scope mount (the ones that hold the scope in place) had apparently rattled loose. They were so loose I could have probably taken them out with my fingers if I had tried. I tightened them back down packed my stuff back up and left...

    I spent about half an hour making sure my scope was level before I put it on... that is one of the downsides to the design by Aero precision. You can have a perfectly level reticle on an perfectly level surface but when you tighten it up it slightly rotates the scope so you have to start with a little offset to get it right. I think they should maybe make a similar design of similar materials, but make it top loading with the more traditional 4 screw set. I like the Aero that I have and once I get it where I want it and figure out how to make it stay put then I will be fine, but a top loader in a similar design and 'ultra light' would be a bit more user friendly from the set up standpoint. You can get it done how it is, it just takes more time and careful calibration. It's a great product, just a suggestion to think about.

    I am not sure if I should or should not use a little bit of BLUE loctite on those screws once I have confirmed I am back to level. (Any advice?)

    So far that's it. 3X repeatable 1" groups. I had to estimate where that 1" was at, but at 100 yards that center dot pretty much covers the 'inch' up, but it's definitely doable, and I think that's about what I am gonna get out of my gun. And you know what? I am pretty happy with that. In fact I think that's pretty good. I am gonna get everything tightened back up and re-zeroed (I should still be pretty close) and I will be in business.
    Last edited by alamo5000; 13 November 2014 at 13:33.

  5. #35
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    Did you do your initial group and zero at 100yds? For the first initial zeroing, I'd have gotten "on the paper" at 25 or 50 yards. Investing in a small spotting scope or a pair of binos to see your targets. And what kind of range do you have access to that has target cameras??? What's the $ per hour cost at that place??

    I'd put a small drop of blue Loctite on your screws, or next time you shoot, check and retighten after every magazine. I feel like it happens on the first outing and then they lock up

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Former11B View Post
    Did you do your initial group and zero at 100yds? For the first initial zeroing, I'd have gotten "on the paper" at 25 or 50 yards. Investing in a small spotting scope or a pair of binos to see your targets. And what kind of range do you have access to that has target cameras??? What's the $ per hour cost at that place??

    I'd put a small drop of blue Loctite on your screws, or next time you shoot, check and retighten after every magazine. I feel like it happens on the first outing and then they lock up
    All my shooting and zeroing started at 100 yards. I didn't start in close and work my way out... I just went to 100 and that was it.

    I plinked in the back yard (like 10 rounds) and used some of that to basically 'get on paper' while I was testing the gun for function and all that. That was also at 100 yards. I went to home depot a long time ago and got these dense foam boards that have this metal tape plasticy stuff on them and they just sit in the barn waiting to be shot. They are perfect to stick a target on especially the sticky kind, but paper works too... I bought them to cut into targets. They come in big sheets like 4 foot by 8 foot or even bigger, maybe 5x12 I don't know... anyway I got some square bales of hay and propped up and target initially at 100yards and in about 2 or 3 rounds I was on the paper... but the weather started turning bad and I had other stuff to do so I didn't shoot for a few days after that.

    Then fast forward to today where the weather really is getting pretty bad out there so I drove over to shoot. If you just get the lane and a target it's $18 an hour for a full 100 yard indoor range with live video. If you want to rent a led sled it's an additional $5. For my initial shots to avoid wasting time I tried it on the led sled for the first little bit just to make sure... I left out of there and it was under $25 for over an hour... if it's not busy they don't time you. If it is busy they try to keep people on track. So it was $25 for over an hour including a led sled rental, which was 'ok' but with all the blocks and sand bags and other stuff I have laying around I can easily accomplish the same thing at home.

    Between both days of shooting I had the rifle pretty close to zero (hitting 1 or 2 inches left from dead center) in probably 10 rounds or so. Maybe 20 being generous. The rest of that box of 50 was me just playing around, which is when the scope came loose.

    Now just to make sure, I am going to re-level the scope (or at least test to see if it went off level), or if just the front came loose tightening it back down pulled it back in line...I don't know... but once I verify, I have a brand new bottle of blue loctite. I was thinking I should use a drop on those particular threads so it doesn't happen again but I wasn't sure if this is normal or acceptable. I think it should be fine but who knows.
    Last edited by alamo5000; 13 November 2014 at 15:53.

  7. #37
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    Great build! You def. done your homework, lots of quality parts. The CMC triggers are my favorite for the money they are hard to beat. Blue locktite will be the fix for scope mount screws unless a particular Manu recommends not to use. Also one of the best investments you can make in gun tools is a torque screwdriver. Getting all of your scope mount base and ring screws torqued evenly and to the proper specs can make the difference sometimes in a MOA rifle and a sub MOA rifle. Glad you posted the review on the dust cover, it helped make up my mind to go order one right now for the Wolvie upper!

  8. #38
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    Alamo, awesome. The build looks great. I really hope you continue to enjoy it. Thanks for posting.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaSwamper View Post
    Great build! You def. done your homework, lots of quality parts. The CMC triggers are my favorite for the money they are hard to beat. Blue locktite will be the fix for scope mount screws unless a particular Manu recommends not to use. Also one of the best investments you can make in gun tools is a torque screwdriver. Getting all of your scope mount base and ring screws torqued evenly and to the proper specs can make the difference sometimes in a MOA rifle and a sub MOA rifle. Glad you posted the review on the dust cover, it helped make up my mind to go order one right now for the Wolvie upper!

    Thank you! I don't know if you read all my posts or not but I saved for almost two years before I rewarded myself with a build. I am 100% debt free (my goal) so when I met that, this is my reward. In the mean time I came up with a concept for what I wanted and put a lot of thought into it. I had the choice to build or buy... and I am so glad that I built one instead. Overall I am very pleased with it. The one inch group is just validation and a bit of icing on the cake.

    If someone asked me if they should build or buy... I would say it depends on that person. If they have a specific concept (like I did) in mind then building is the way to go. I could have gotten something slightly cheaper, but I figure it's better to get something that I LOVE, not just 'like'.

    There was no manual for that scope mount... but I don't think a drop of blue will hurt anything. In fact I think it's a good idea. I didn't even think to put any on there before or I would have done so. I just have to make sure everything is on there right before I go at it... THEN I can continue trying to get a perfect zero. I got close today but I am not sure if it's off a lot now or not. I have a few more days of cold and rain and freezing weather, so first break I will go try it again. In the mean time i will do my 'inside work' to make sure the scope is still level and all that jive.

    The scope mount came with a dedicated tool so I figured that would be good enough, but I have a ton of tools around here. It's getting them tight, but I guess the repeated recoil jarred them loose. I don't know if I need to figure out a way to measure the torque on the screws. If there is some kind of special way to measure the torque on a allen wrench/torques head let me know. The base of the thing didn't move. It seems like it was just the front two torque screws up closest to the scope. the back ones might have come loose too, but I don't know. I don't think they came loose as bad (if at all) vs the front ones. Those ones were really loose.

    I am testing this optic so over time we shall see. I bought it on a whim thinking it had good reviews and it pretty much had the basic features I like. I was initially wanting an ACOG but the design of what I got was very interesting, and the price was right. Now that I got the build done I can turn my attention to learning more about optics and my various choices with that are. If this one works good I might keep it, if I find I need an upgrade I might do that too. I don't know a lot about optics but I did read a bit before buying.

    As for the dust cover it's a small part of the overall rifle but I am very pleased with the product. I am sure you will like it. Seriously get back with me once you put it on and tell me what you think.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by XACT_ABORT View Post
    Alamo, awesome. The build looks great. I really hope you continue to enjoy it. Thanks for posting.
    Continue to enjoy it? THIS IS MY BABY! It's one of the family now. I am pleased with the parts I have and with how the thing turned out. Very much so. They aren't the only good manufacturers out there by any means but I got what I paid for. Very good stuff.

    I can already tell that I am going to wind up building more of these. Maybe the next one will be in .308.

    The overall 'project' was a very enjoyable experience, but there was a measure of sifting through a lot of bull****. Talking with honest and knowledgeable people helped me tremendously. There are those though who just want to sell you something.

    I am very happy with how it all came out. I am sure as I shoot it more I will find things I want to tinker with...or add... but overall...

    I might want to figure out a way to add some BIUS. I was thinking 45 degree irons but I would have to alter my scope mount or push the rear sight forward. I will have to think about various options. Everything is on the table.
    Last edited by alamo5000; 13 November 2014 at 18:30.

  11. #41
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    I use the Wheeler Torque screwdriver, it comes with alota useful gunsmithing apex bits that yes are also allen head but I also have a full Weaver bit set.

    http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firear...+torque+wrench

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaSwamper View Post
    I use the Wheeler Torque screwdriver, it comes with alota useful gunsmithing apex bits that yes are also allen head but I also have a full Weaver bit set.

    http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firear...+torque+wrench
    I will see what I can round up....

    On a side note I just used a digital fish scale and my entire build including the optic weighs in at 8.73 lbs.

    Without the scope mount and optic it is 7.44 lbs.

    I don't know if that's good or not... probably a bit on the heavy side... but that's ok It's solid....I like solid.
    Last edited by alamo5000; 13 November 2014 at 19:19.

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