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  1. #1
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    AR-15 Cleaning Supplies

    So I tried to do some digging and didn't find any threads particularly dedicated towards AR-15 cleaning/maintenance.

    Now, I've done some digging on the interwebs to see what other folks use and it pretty much seems that each has their own ways. I'm just curious to see what you guys use.

    Unfortunately, I'm a bit limited on budget (I've got about $50 right now to spend on cleaning, but I could stretch it to $75 max) - Jack Carbine pretty much tanked my savings. But on the flipside, I wont be needing to do any white glove cleaning for a while. So I think for now, I'll just need basic supplies.

    I've been searching around - I'm leaning towards some sort of Otis kit. Does any here use one? Or do you guys kind of just pick and choose supplies from various companies?

    Boresnakes? Yay or nay? I've heard people say to get it; others say don't bother. Thoughts?

    I've dealt Hoppes, but that's about it. I've heard of the others out there (ie: Ballistol, Fireclean, Froglube, etc).

    What do you guys use for cleaning - do you use an all in one (ie: some sort of CLP), or do you use a separate product for each of the C L P?

    I'm thinking about just using Ballistol (for now) as my CLP - looking for an all in one, this seems to fit the bill (on the cheaper side of the house). But I might pick up a small jar of Hoppes for good measure, since it's so cheap. Later on, after my bank account recovers, I'll probably start doing some exploring/T&E of my own.

    However, I do like the idea of Fireclean/Froglube since it's eco-friendly. -- OR, would I save money in the long run, by just starting out with something like Froglube?

    But the afore mentioned for now.

    ____

    ... sort of a segway into my second topic. I've been doing some digging as to what to do when you first build/buy a rifle. I've read some people say that barrels in a break-in; but have read that, for chrome-lined barrels at least, they don't need a break in.

    I've also read that you should do a first time cleaning before throwing lead down range (to clean out the rifle from sitting in storage). I also want to do somewhat of a torture test (just for my own curiosity to see how far I can push my rifle) - probably somewhere between 3-5000 rounds without any sort of cleaning (maybe a wipedown of the BCG and maybe some lube on it here and there). [Side note: if I decide to go this route, recommendations on lube?]

    (I've probably forgotten a thing or two to ask so, there will be follow-on posts)

  2. #2
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    I am not an expert on AR's so my responses are being carried over from care from other type of weapons/pistols/rifles....and some brief observations. I too am curious about what other people use....and if something like froglube would be a good investment. I will opine then wait for the others to tell their opinions.

    I have three or four major products that I use. Pro Shot 1 stop 3 in one has been fantastic on all my pistols. I rarely use anything else. I do have a spray bottle of CLP that I do use sometimes. It is a bit 'thicker' and offers in my opinion some lubrication more than the Pro-Shot so I am using CLP on my AR especially during break in. I also have some foaming bore stuff that tends to work pretty good.

    For deep cleaning I use the GREEN can of NON CHLORINATED disc brake cleaner. Do not use the red can as it has chlorine in it and it can damage the metal of your gun over time.

    Any cleaning product you use will build up over time... so the disc brake cleaner will strip all that old gunk off and make it less 'sticky'... a gun that has been cleaned but has sat for a while might get a 'tacky' feel to the surface from cleaning solution drying out on the barrel or other parts. Once every few months (maybe 6?) They get a deep clean and a good bath in the other stuff. There is also such a thing as over doing it. If it's too wet it will attract dust...

    As for a bore snake... I bought one for my AR and after trying to use it I am thinking of getting a stick that has a rotating handle on it (forgot the name)....the bore snake is fine once you loosen up the gunk in there but sometimes that fouling is stubborn. For pistols I actually soak my barrels in the Pro Shot and it does a good job of getting a lot of that stuff out of there. For a rifle the idea of soaking it for half an hour or so is harder because you just can't take the barrel off and you would need a gallon of the stuff. I might experiment some and see what I can come up with. I might try taking my muzzle brake off and capping the barrel and pouring pro shot down the barrel and leaving it for half an hour... I have no idea if this is a good idea or not.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    I've also read that you should do a first time cleaning before throwing lead down range (to clean out the rifle from sitting in storage). I also want to do somewhat of a torture test (just for my own curiosity to see how far I can push my rifle) - probably somewhere between 3-5000 rounds without any sort of cleaning (maybe a wipedown of the BCG and maybe some lube on it here and there).
    I am curious what other say about this too. I have read a lot from the extreme precision long range shooters and those guys are meticulous.

    From what I understand there IS a break in time for a barrel. Think about it... you had someone drilling a hole through metal to make the bore... and they do what they can to clean up edges and make the bore nice, but there is nothing like shooting it to break it in. If the bore isn't absolutely perfect you may have 'spots' in there that only shooting will take care of...

    I have heard the extreme long range guys will shoot a few rounds then clean the barrel... shoot a few then clean... but if you are not doing 1000 yard shots I think that might be some over kill.

    This is just my opinion but I would say clean it after each trip to the range, and definitely clean it after it sits for a while. Just sitting there will dry out any kind of solution you put on there.

  4. #4
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    Just get a standard m16/m4 butt stock rod kit around $10-15(you'll want the rod if you ever get a stuck casing). A chamber brush if the rod kit doesn't have one (about $5) and a decent carbon scraper tool.

    Worked with ballistol before, works, not my favorite. Breakfree clp works just fine.


    Personally I have the Gerber m16 kit(mildly upgraded version of the Otis, I only use about a third of it), a bore snake and a carbon scraper. I use almost exclusively CLP but am looking at diming out on fireclean soon.
    It's difficult to soar with eagles, when you work with turkeys...

  5. #5
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    I have another couple of questions to throw in here....

    Has anyone ever tried a BONE tool? Is it useful?

    Also how do you go about cleaning your barrel extension? What is the most efficient way to get in between those teeth? Are cleaning stars generally the best route to go or are there other options?

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    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    For pistols I actually soak my barrels in the Pro Shot and it does a good job of getting a lot of that stuff out of there. For a rifle the idea of soaking it for half an hour or so is harder because you just can't take the barrel off and you would need a gallon of the stuff. I might experiment some and see what I can come up with.
    Yep - I know what you mean; I've done the same to pistol barrels, excecpt with Hoppes. Not so sure how this works out for an AR-15

    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    From what I understand there IS a break in time for a barrel. Think about it... you had someone drilling a hole through metal to make the bore... and they do what they can to clean up edges and make the bore nice, but there is nothing like shooting it to break it in. If the bore isn't absolutely perfect you may have 'spots' in there that only shooting will take care of...
    Yep - I've heard the same - but as you said, this was moreso geared towards reaching out and touching someone. For me, the Jack Carbine is more of an all in one - doubtful I'll ever hit long range with it (primarily because, I can't even find a range past 100 yards) - but that'd be fun to try, should the opportunity ever present itself. Thus apparently, for my rifle, I shouldn't need to "break in" the barrel.

    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    Has anyone ever tried a BONE tool? Is it useful?
    From what I can tell - it performs exactly like the CAT (Combat Applications Tool) M4 --> MrGunsngear did a review on it: CAT (Combat Application Tools) M-4 AR-15 Cleaning Tool Review & Demonstration (HD). Something I forgot to mention - but something I definitely want to get eventually.
    Last edited by Thompson; 27 November 2014 at 18:28.

  7. #7
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    I found this on youtube...it's interesting.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOB5eCReAQY

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by camomike View Post
    Just get a standard m16/m4 butt stock rod kit around $10-15(you'll want the rod if you ever get a stuck casing). A chamber brush if the rod kit doesn't have one (about $5) and a decent carbon scraper tool.

    Worked with ballistol before, works, not my favorite. Breakfree clp works just fine.
    Curious, was there anything you didn't like about Ballistol as compared to Breakfree - just curious?

    Also - do I need to worry about moisture build up at all? My rifle is going to sit in a Pelican (psuedo-safe) case for the foreseeable future.

    So - how does this one look: AR-15/M16 BUTTSTOCK CLEANING KIT
    I think that's everything plus the chamber brush.

    Is something like the Otis flexible memory cable a nice addition to have? or not really?
    Last edited by Thompson; 27 November 2014 at 18:49.

  9. #9
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    Look into MS clean kits too.

  10. #10
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    Boresnakes, brass rod and paper towels always worked fine for me

  11. #11
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    Make this short and sweet. Froglube for the win!! And a CAT tool you'll be GTG!!

  12. #12
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    Up your input price by $25 and get this: https://www.deweyrods.com/cart/index...&product_id=56

    Throw in a box of Q-tips, a gallon of simple green and a bottle of SLIP EWL. The Dewey system is the best $100 I have spent. It does a great job on the chamber as well...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stone View Post
    Up your input price by $25 and get this: https://www.deweyrods.com/cart/index...&product_id=56

    Throw in a box of Q-tips, a gallon of simple green and a bottle of SLIP EWL. The Dewey system is the best $100 I have spent. It does a great job on the chamber as well...
    I bought a Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rod.... I like the idea that 1/ it swivels like the dewey one 2/ that it's somewhat flexible. I could be wrong though. Won't be the first time.

    Anyone have experience with these?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    Curious, was there anything you didn't like about Ballistol as compared to Breakfree - just curious?

    Also - do I need to worry about moisture build up at all? My rifle is going to sit in a Pelican (psuedo-safe) case for the foreseeable future.

    So - how does this one look: AR-15/M16 BUTTSTOCK CLEANING KIT
    I think that's everything plus the chamber brush.

    Is something like the Otis flexible memory cable a nice addition to have? or not really?
    Yes a kit like that is exactly what I was referring to. Grab a carbon tool and to should be good.

    Honestly, part of it was the smell after I had shot with it. I also really didn't care for how much residual oil it left. Was too much IMHO on parts I didn't want coated super heavy. On the parts I did want coated heavy it worked great. In regards to cleaning with it, it worked great, just took a bit longer than I wanted. I will say it kept pulling crud after my normal go to had stopped (hoppes).

    As for the cable I default to my bore snake more. If I need to scrub I default to my rod.

    For moisture issues, as long as you are coating your rifle regularly, the oil should displace any moisture. If you are concerned the are moisture absorbers you can buy.

    Never really used the chamber stars. Never felt the need to. The chamber brush will knock most of the fouling loose, and Otis patches do a fine job of picking it up.
    It's difficult to soar with eagles, when you work with turkeys...

  15. #15
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    For a carbon tool I grabbed the CAT m4.
    It's difficult to soar with eagles, when you work with turkeys...

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