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  1. #1
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    NWTF Target Stands

    First of all, the PVC Stand is not my design and does not appear to have a copywrite. I saw the target stand in a magazine article and decided to build a couple. After posting pictures in a thread, Fort Tom suggested I put this in the download section. This post is there in PDF format for downloading under the “Targets” section

    http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...?do=file&id=37

    I went to http://www.nwtf.org and downloaded their PDF for this post. That PDF is located at:

    http://www.nwtf.org/tv_magazines/images/GITG_PVC_target_stand.pdf


    I also created my own drawing to show the relationship of all the pieces. Rather than buy a cut piece of PVC at seven feet, I did some simple calculations to see how many stands could be built with minimal scrap. One target stand is never enough. You can build four stands with three ten foot sections of 2” schedule-40 pipe. With all the “T” connectors, pipe, glue, and furring strips, the four stands come in just under $100.

    I have included the NWTF PDF page, my drawing, a drawing of my frame, and the pipe cuts. Note that the pipe cuts include the 1/8” saw kerf to provide total scrap. The pieces are actually cut at 4” 12” and 20”.

    One important item you must think about when you are gluing the pieces to make the cross brace. Glue the four inch stubs into their “T” connectors first, and let them dry for a few minutes. Then glue one stub “T” into the cross brace and let it dry a few minutes. When that assembly is “set” then place it on a flat surface (concrete basement floor is what I used) and glue the other stub “T” onto the cross brace assembly. This will insure that when you place the cross brace into the legs, both stubs point in the same direction. This may seem intuitively obvious, but I felt it should be mentioned. The stubs on the cross brace must be parallel.

    I did not want to just drop a couple of furring strips into the stand. I used two eight foot 2x2 furring strips for each target stand. First I cut each strip six feet long. That provided two pieces of scrap about two feet long. I cut each one of those 21 inches long for cross braces. That left two three inch pieces. I nailed the cross braces – one at the top, and one where its’ center would be 30 inches from the top. This creates a frame that fits the NWTF Stand, and is sized for stapling standard 24x30 sized target cardboards. I nailed the 3 inch scraps to the inside center of each side of the frame for additional support and staple points – no scrap.

    The NWTF PDF Sheet is shown on the next page, followed by my drawing for the stands, my drawing for the target frames, and finally the cutting recommendations for four target stands.









    Cut and assembled parts for 4 stands:



    Assembled with a couple of furring strips inserted:



    I hope you find this useful.
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  2. #2
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    Do you have an issue with wind blowing the stands around? I know here it gets kind of windy, I was thinking either sand bags or just filling the bottom legs with some quick-rete to help hold them in place.
    Just a regular guy.

  3. #3
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    Good point. The 2" PVC is pretty stable as designed. I think it would be a real issue with smaller diameter pipe. But a sandbag on one leg would definitely be a good idea on real windy days. I've only used them in Georgia so far and not had a problem - 10 to 15 MPH has been the worst I've had though. They rocked a little but did not show any signs of turning over. I would vote against filling the legs unless it was for a permanent range - too heavy to transport easily - kind of defeats the design.
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  4. #4
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    I did a few last year using 2" as well. They are pretty cheap to make and easy to transport. I ended up making a frame on the bottom vice just the legs. Nice job Jerry.

  5. #5
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    you need to copyright it fast before some else takes it and make MILLIONS of your idea
    $300 and 10 Pastrami Sandwiches and a case of Diet Coke. ( UWone77)

  6. #6
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    Since I am a plumber this has been my stand of choice for years. Started making them with copper tube years ago. If you glue the joints you can fill the bases with water on windy days. On a really cold day when I was doing plywood backing, we shot a few hundred rounds of 30-378's and .300 Win mags with no issues but I shattered both tee's with a .45 at 10 yds.

  7. #7
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    I don't have pictures, but made similar from smaller pipe. Ended up moving to 2x4 for the frame, the additional weight made it stand up better.

  8. #8
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    Thanks, for sharing. Nice pics and directions.
    What can one man do? You never know until you try.

  9. #9
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    Thank you for sharing plans Jerry. I had always just eye balled the measurements until they looked right and called it good lol

    Nice to actually have real blueprints

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim.bell View Post
    I don't have pictures, but made similar from smaller pipe. Ended up moving to 2x4 for the frame, the additional weight made it stand up better.
    I have some wooden stands I made to work with e-type silhouettes kr; 1x1s for calm days (and super light weight) and 2x4s for breezy days but they're heavy to tote 300+ yards one way

  11. #11
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    Drill holes in opposite corners, stake down as-needed.
    WWW.TACTICALYELLOWVISOR.NET

  12. #12
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    You could also cap the ends of the base legs with sand inside.

  13. #13
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    I just cut my legs about 50% longer…learned that after the first set I built

  14. #14
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    I have used a similar design for years. I solved the wind issue by filling the legs with quickrete I also dontngkue the brace that joins both sides together so I can take it down and store them for transport. The quickrete doesn't add add much wieght to it. Just enough to keep it steady

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