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  1. #16
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    for the dillon, which i havent played with , but if i did. Would use their dies, as their setup for their stuff

  2. #17
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    Just getting started-advice please.

    Okay guys, I'm gonna get dillon dies. The good thing here is I share this press with my dad and my brother, but I'll be primary user since my dad works 80 hours (or what seems like) a week, and my bro is a new father. Since it's the 3 of us we can split costs. Really though, 60 for a three die set and lifetime no bs replacement isn't bad.

    Now I know we went about this ass backward buying the progressive press first, but I want a single stage to get my feet wet and for dialed in precision loads. The two in mind are the Lee challenger breech lock kit ($126 shipped on amazon) and the RCBS Rock chucker supreme master kit ($320 plus $50 rebate so $270) the Lee kit comes with all the same things the RCBS does, but the press is aluminum, not cast iron. The Lee also doesn't have the lifetime warranty the RCBS does. Anyone using the Lee single stage challenger? Can anyone attest to its quality? Is it worth it for me to pay over twice the price for the RCBS when all I'm getting is a different material press? I've read the Lee is great for pistol and small rifle loads, which is what I'm loading (9mm, .40, .223).

  3. #18
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    Do you need all the little stuff the kits come with?.... if not ,my choice is if your budget minded get the lee breech lock press., if you like the green name..get the rcbs..i have pumped 1000's of rounds thru the lee presses and never had a problem, with anything.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride4frnt View Post
    Alright, next question. Which does are you guys using? Specifically .223, .40 and 9mm. .
    On this, I use a variety of dies (though mostly Dillon). For 223 and 308 I suggest "Small Base" dies IF you have multiple firearms in those calibers. That die will resize to minimum manufacturing specifications - pretty much guaranteed to drop into any in-spec chamber (RCBS makes good ones). I like the Dillon dies because you can pull a clip off the die and the guts fall out for cleaning - you do not have to remove the die body - no re-adjustment necessary for cleaning. This is very important on seating and crimping dies. I like carbide sizing dies. I like the Lee "Factory Crimp" die for 223 and 308 - no bullet setback in semi-autos. You do not have to have a complete set from one manufacturer. On my 243 I use an RCBS small base size die with carbide expander ball, a Forster Ultra Micrometer Seating die and no crimp. I use a single shot Remington 40XB-KS in 243 for prairie dogs - shoots a third MOA consistently.

    For pistol dies - use the Dillon carbide sets - the only way to go IMHO. Expensive, but your great grandkids will still produce factory caliber ammo (pun intended)
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride4frnt View Post
    but I want a single stage to get my feet wet and for dialed in precision loads.
    Sorry, just saw this. The precision ammo I mentioned above in 243 is done on the Dillon. Just because it is progressive, does NOT mean run of the mill quality output. The reloader pulling the handle creates the quality. Metallic reloading is one of the NRA courses I teach, so I have (or had) multiple press styles for class. The Dillon is what I use for my reloads. Take the money you would use for another press, and buy quality accessories (dies digital scale, etc.)
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry R View Post
    Sorry, just saw this. The precision ammo I mentioned above in 243 is done on the Dillon. Just because it is progressive, does NOT mean run of the mill quality output. The reloader pulling the handle creates the quality. Metallic reloading is one of the NRA courses I teach, so I have (or had) multiple press styles for class. The Dillon is what I use for my reloads. Take the money you would use for another press, and buy quality accessories (dies digital scale, etc.)
    Thanks jerry. I understand that the dillon will put out very precise loads, but I like the peace of mind of being able to watch myself one step at a time. For the price of the kit, I don't think I'll mind paying for that and having it, even when I get comfortable enough to put these rounds out on the dillon. Too bad you're in florida, I'd love to take that class.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride4frnt View Post
    Too bad you're in florida, I'd love to take that class.
    The single stage would be a good investment (cost not withstanding) for multiple reasons. You are spot on about the learning curve with it. But other uses come to mind. RCBS makes a nice primer pocket swage kit for military cases. That does not lend itself well to a Dillon; perfect for a single stage. My comments were more to the budget minded on initial startup.

    Now, about Florida -------- the door is always open. If you are ever in the Central Florida area, drop me a PM. There might even be a couple of fingers of Gentleman Jack waiting for you.
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  8. #23
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    Since I'm late to the party again... If you're serious about precision then consistency is your friend. Along with deswaging crimped primer pockets and uniforming the primer pocket you should be also deburring and uniforming the flashhole. It will create a more consistent burn from the primer ignition and consistency is your friend. Also, learn to do things like measuring to the ogive rather than the melplat which too many people do. Learn proper load development. Anyone can load ammo, but finding the harmonic node and seating depth is where it really takes you beyond. I would suggest going to Snipershide.com in the Reloading section and read the last 7 stickied threads at the top where you'll learn a lot about load development for accuracy as well as terminology that will come up and make it easier to understand. Lastly, remember reloading is a lot of Ford vs Chevy and everyone thinking their way is the only way because it's worked for them for 50 years... Don't fall into that trap. I will say that I like progressives, but the powder dispensers don't work well with some of the better stick powders like Varget, and if you're serious about accuracy then you should consider picking up a high quality powder dispenser like a Promethius or an RCBS 1500 Chargemaster Combo. Another cool tool you've never heard of but when you use it you'll be like "Where have you been my whole life?!"... Giraud Trimmer, lol.

  9. #24
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    I gotta tell you Jerry that the question of progressives and loading for precision even with the Dillon 650 is debatable. I wouldn't hesitate for basic AR ammo and pistol to use one, but for my match ammo it's always going to be a single stage. There are too many variables with the progressives which cause inconsistencies enough to make it not as ideal.

  10. #25
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    I agree completely. I use ball powder (or flake) for most rifle loads ("basic ammo") because it meters well; for match stuff (and Pdogs) I seat the primers separately, and use a precision powder measure. I only use the Dillon for resize/decap - and seating - no crimp.
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  11. #26
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    I only crimp my 223 match because I run 77's and I've had issues in my SPR because I have a tight throat. Large frame semi's though I've never crimped, and I don't think it's necessary.

    For anybody looking to do progressives with mostly 5.56 and who want to use the dispenser I highly recommend checking out Ramshot Tac if you haven't yet. Meters great, not temperature sensitive, and burns cleaner.

  12. #27
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    Also, when looking at dies I personally prefer either Forster or Redding. But like I said earlier that becomes somewhat of a Ford vs Chevy.

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