MEGA Arms Wedge Lock Handguard

[fledge]

Is the only reason not to use the online mount is front sight clearance? Or am I missing something?

[JGifford]

Is the only reason not to use the online mount is front sight clearance? Or am I missing something?

I did not consider the in-line mount, and have not tried it.

[JGifford]

I plan on using the Inline Scout Mount on my Hodge rail; is this not recommended? The rifle will be run suppressed most of the time, so I'm trying to push the light as far as possible, so I originally didn't care about the fact that there's only 1 M-LOK slot; should I be?

All it can use is 1 MLOK slot, unless the in-line mount is somehow special?

[Slippers]

I plan on using the Inline Scout Mount on my Hodge rail; is this not recommended? The rifle will be run suppressed most of the time, so I'm trying to push the light as far as possible, so I originally didn't care about the fact that there's only 1 M-LOK slot; should I be?

I wouldn't cantilever the inline mount more than a half inch off the front of the rail. If you run it reversed like fledge, then it would be fine, but the light won't be as far forward. You might run into head clearance issues with the OEM surefire heads, but we just got in the latest revision inline mounts from anodizing which are much thinner, and are 7075.

Jgifford - the inline only has two m-lok nuts, so it does fit in a single m-lok slot.

[JGifford]

I wouldn't cantilever the inline mount more than a half inch off the front of the rail. If you run it reversed like fledge, then it would be fine, but the light won't be as far forward.

Jgifford - the inline only has two m-lok nuts, so it does fit in a single m-lok slot.

I like how Fledge has his mounted. I wouldn't want my light out in the muzzle-blast. But I'm OCD like that. Running a suppressor, the can gets hot. I wouldn't want the light riding fractions of an inch off of a suppressor, either.

[Slippers]

It works fine with the mount reversed using our latest 7075 inline model and Surefire heads:



I can swap you out for the offset and refund the difference if you'd like.

[UWone77]

I've personally never had an issue with my mounts or lights near the suppressor, even on F/A.

[Default.mp3]

I wouldn't cantilever the inline mount more than a half inch off the front of the rail. If you run it reversed like fledge, then it would be fine, but the light won't be as far forward. You might run into head clearance issues with the OEM surefire heads, but we just got in the latest revision inline mounts from anodizing which are much thinner, and are 7075.

Jgifford - the inline only has two m-lok nuts, so it does fit in a single m-lok slot.

My concern about the single M-LOK slot is the fact that it would cantilever the mount way out, which I wasn't sure was kosher; Slippers seems to have confirmed that issue. I'm not concerned about the heat, as I run a suppressor cover, and rarely do mag dumps anyway. However, running the mount in reverse may not be an option for me; I would think the M600U's body would cover the mounting holes, no?

I might just end up with the Unity Tactical M-LOK/Fusion Adapter if Slippers thinks that cantilevering is a bad idea; I had hoped the suppressor being there might offer it some measure of protection for the mount against being levered up on. I suppose the Unity Tactical Monkey Bar is another possible solution, though I'm not sure how it side steps the cantilevering issue, given that it doesn't look as substantial as the Arisaka In-Line Mount, and is made with 6061 instead of 7075.

[Slippers]

My concern about the single M-LOK slot is the fact that it would cantilever the mount way out, which I wasn't sure was kosher; Slippers seems to have confirmed that issue. I'm not concerned about the heat, as I run a suppressor cover, and rarely do mag dumps anyway. However, running the mount in reverse may not be an option for me; I would think the M600U's body would cover the mounting holes, no?

I might just end up with the Unity Tactical M-LOK/Fusion Adapter if Slippers thinks that cantilevering is a bad idea; I had hoped the suppressor being there might offer it some measure of protection for the mount against being levered up on. I suppose the Unity Tactical Monkey Bar is another possible solution, though I'm not sure how it side steps the cantilevering issue, given that it doesn't look as substantial as the Arisaka In-Line Mount, and is made with 6061 instead of 7075.

When you use a M600 Scout on our inline, it can put quite a bit of leverage on the mount, especially if you cantilever it off the end and don't have the handguard behind it to add support. Jason Trusty (Gear Sector) mentioned this as one of the main reasons he doesn't make a cantilever mount, and this is also why we recommend against using our inline in this fashion.

You can still use an M600 on the inline with it reversed, but you'll need to take an Allen wrench and chop it down so it's short enough to fit between the body and mount so you can tighten the M-Lok screws.

[alamo5000]

I like how Fledge has his mounted. I wouldn't want my light out in the muzzle-blast. But I'm OCD like that. Running a suppressor, the can gets hot. I wouldn't want the light riding fractions of an inch off of a suppressor, either.

I thought the same thing before I bought one of Slipper's lights. Through my own experience I've learned otherwise. The can gets hot in the middle of can WAY more than it does down by the mount. In other words it's a non issue.

I am running a 9.7" SLR rail on a 10.5" barrel and right now my light is almost exactly even with the end of the rail right now, but that is based more on how I grip the gun while still maintaining good access to the 'on' button. I could probably stick the light out another 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch (maybe even more than that) before it would even be remotely close to any non suppressed muzzle blasts.

[JGifford]

I thought the same thing before I bought one of Slipper's lights. Through my own experience I've learned otherwise. The can gets hot in the middle of can WAY more than it does down by the mount. In other words it's a non issue.

I am running a 9.7" SLR rail on a 10.5" barrel and right now my light is almost exactly even with the end of the rail right now, but that is based more on how I grip the gun while still maintaining good access to the 'on' button. I could probably stick the light out another 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch (maybe even more than that) before it would even be remotely close to any non suppressed muzzle blasts.

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...928#post139928

Just food for thought. I keep my electronics out of the way of constant blast forces if it at all possible.

[gatordev]

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...928#post139928

Just food for thought. I keep my electronics out of the way of constant blast forces if it at all possible.

That didn't really have much to do with blast forces and much more to do with putting a $89 light on a carbine. My SF mounted on my MK18 in the same position has been just fine, and looks far worse for wear.

[schambers]

I have a surefire m300 light mounted to the 5' o'clock of a kac mams and I have not seen any major carbon buildup or damaging effects to the head unit.

[Dasanii19]

I was hoping someone could help me out. I have a 16" ballistics advantage modern barrel. I called Mega today and they told me that my gas block would be sticking out if I used a 12" wedge lock rail. MEGA suggested using a 14" to cover up the gas block. I believe I was talking to the secretary and am not sure the information I was given was correct. I am interested in hearing your option on which length rail I should go with using my 16" bbl. I did purchase the SLR hodge gas block, hopefully this was the right move.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

I was hoping someone could help me out. I have a 16" ballistics advantage modern barrel. I called Mega today and they told me that my gas block would be sticking out if I used a 12" wedge lock rail. MEGA suggested using a 14" to cover up the gas block. I believe I was talking to the secretary and am not sure the information I was given was correct. I am interested in hearing your option on which length rail I should go with using my 16" bbl. I did purchase the SLR hodge gas block, hopefully this was the right move.

This is a 16" barrel with a mid length gas system and 14" rail. You can see it covers it well. The 12" should cover it but it will be close which is why they suggested the 14" rail. I like the look of the extended(14") but i have other 12" rails on 16 barrels without issues.