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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by gatordev View Post
    I have not had that experience. I completely get why people want to pin their gas blocks, but if it's a range gun, not pinning the gas block doesn't mean it's going to fall off. I have several rifles with over 2K rounds (many suppressed) and they've been fine. Also, as was mentioned earlier, Loctite is susceptible to heat, so Loctiting a high-heat source doesn't really guarantee anything. That's why Rockset will often be used on muzzle devices.

    But again, if I had to rely on my weapon for more than recreational shooting, then I definitely understand the desire to pin.
    I've obviously never pinned mine (yet) but when I recently swapped a gas block out I guess I forgot to put anything to lock the set screw in place. I went out shooting and didn't even get 100 rounds in and the set screw had worked loose and my gas block blew forward a few inches. It wasn't the end of the world and I was even able to fix it right there on the spot...but it did leave me thinking.

    I'm not a professional shooter or anything myself but now that I'm kind of settled into what parts I like I think pinning might be an option if for nothing else I won't need to mess with it for the most part. That said when I got home that day I put some loctite on the set screws and a few hundred rounds since and its been holding up fine.

    Pinning is a 100% sure method, but it doesn't mean it's the only thing that will work. Unlike me in my situation, I didn't do anything to secure the set screws and it nearly ended a range session before I could ever get started. That was on me as my bad, but in the end the lesson was to secure the gas block in one way or another so that it won't come loose.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    I've obviously never pinned mine (yet) but when I recently swapped a gas block out I guess I forgot to put anything to lock the set screw in place. I went out shooting and didn't even get 100 rounds in and the set screw had worked loose and my gas block blew forward a few inches. It wasn't the end of the world and I was even able to fix it right there on the spot...but it did leave me thinking.
    I get that. All I'm saying is that it's not as definitive as you made it sound in your post. Dimpling can work, if done correctly. Fun fact: Not all gas blocks are truly what they say they are, as well. I've had a DD .750 gas block that I couldn't get on a barrel. Another gas block went on just fine (I honestly can't remember the make, but it was a mainstream manufacturer). So basic fit and finish can come into play, as well.

    Another great option is a cut FSP or regular FSP. They're not going anywhere!

  3. #33
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    With as cheap as lo-pro gas blocks are, why not just stake the set screw?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by gatordev View Post
    All I'm saying is that it's not as definitive as you made it sound in your post.
    Sorry about that. I never had the intention to make it sound like that.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aberration79 View Post
    With as cheap as lo-pro gas blocks are, why not just stake the set screw?
    You know what? That sounds like it could work. Good thinking.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aberration79 View Post
    With as cheap as lo-pro gas blocks are, why not just stake the set screw?
    Meh.... I've seen some staking jobs on set screws. No Thanks.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by UWone77 View Post
    Here's the last block Rainier did for me.


    Very nice job.
    I pin every block on every build now after having one walk forward on a properly dimpled barrel. I stopped doing the tapered pins about 5 years ago and switched to a roll pin. I have a .300 BO with over 5k rounds through it with only a roll pin (removed the set screws to see how the pin held and have never put them back) in the gas block. It has not budged even with a can shooting supers.

  8. #38
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    Many of you know this, but I thought I'd point out that Ballistic Advantage (a WEVO sponsor) will pin a low-pro gas block at time of order of one of their barrels for $40, which includes the nitride gas block (basically, $30 for the block and $10 for pinning). I had this done on a barrel and was quite pleased with the results.


  9. #39
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    So what did you use to get the pin out and back in without beating the hell out of the gas block? I got 2 Noveske barrels. The first block I mutilated.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aberration79 View Post
    So what did you use to get the pin out and back in without beating the hell out of the gas block? I got 2 Noveske barrels. The first block I mutilated.
    We use straight coil pins here at BA. Our armorer Clint made this video on how to install a gas block. He goes over the tips and tools needed for the install. You can use the same tools and tips to remove the gas block.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdqIVX-FGDk

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aberration79 View Post
    So what did you use to get the pin out and back in without beating the hell out of the gas block? I got 2 Noveske barrels. The first block I mutilated.
    I've removed the pin a couple times on my Noveske barrel. I use a starret brand punch, appropriately sized, and tap it out. Barrel vice blocks make it easy so it won't rotate due to the off-centerline force.
    Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ballistic Advantage View Post
    We use straight coil pins here at BA. Our armorer Clint made this video on how to install a gas block. He goes over the tips and tools needed for the install. You can use the same tools and tips to remove the gas block.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdqIVX-FGDk
    I am liking the sound of that. Have you ever done some torture testing?

    Quote Originally Posted by Slippers View Post
    I've removed the pin a couple times on my Noveske barrel. I use a starret brand punch, appropriately sized, and tap it out. Barrel vice blocks make it easy so it won't rotate due to the off-centerline force.
    Yeah thats how I mangled the first one. Both of mine took some serious banging to get out, and getting the first one in wasn't too bad until that last bit. I didn't even bother with the second. I was hoping someone had a sweet jig but I have never found one.

    The problem was it took so much that the barrel constantly rotated in a vice, and could never get a good enough block fashioned to come from above with it but straight. Being my first builds and one of the first things I got at it was pretty discouraging. No worries at least I can just get another block from Noveske when I want to do it right lol.
    Last edited by Aberration79; 24 July 2015 at 10:44.

  13. #43
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    You could always use a coiled roll pin instead of the solid one. Noveske used to use them awhile back. Makes it much easier to install/remove.
    Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ballistic Advantage View Post
    We use straight coil pins here at BA. Our armorer Clint made this video on how to install a gas block. He goes over the tips and tools needed for the install. You can use the same tools and tips to remove the gas block.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdqIVX-FGDk
    Is the gas block in the video the same one sold on your site? The block pictured doesn't appear to have to hole drilled for the roll pin under the barrel.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by UWone77 View Post
    Meh.... I've seen some staking jobs on set screws. No Thanks.
    Staking jobs on set screws would be bad juju. I think with proper dimpling of the barrel and just a very tiny drop of blue loctite on set screws then there is no need to pin the gas block. Is it better to pin the gas block? Maybe, but not necessarily so. I like to be able to remove them with a minimum of fuss. If you never intend to change a gas block you may as well go ahead and pin it in place or dimple the barrel for the set screws. If there is a possibility that you may want to change the gas block out to use an adjustable gas block or a piston system, I wouldn't do either until I found out what i really wanted for the rifle. Then I would dimple the barrel or even pin the gas block. The barrel will get shot out before the gas block would need changing I suspect. Then, it would be a case of changing the barrel and moving the gas block to the new barrel.
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