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  1. #46
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    DON'T USE LOCTITE ON GAS BLOCK SET SCREWS. Sorry to yell but some folks aren't listening. That shit melts at a pretty low temperature. Use Rocksett or another ceramic-based high-temperature adhesive. It's water-soluble and it's no harder to remove than Loctite, but it won't melt!

  2. #47
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    Not contradicting anyone or saying what any of you do/recommend is right or wrong, but BCM uses high temp red loctite on their gas block set screws.

    The thing about high temp permanent red is that even after it goes above the rated temp, it's still a real pain in the butt to remove.
    Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoxyDave View Post
    DON'T USE LOCTITE ON GAS BLOCK SET SCREWS. Sorry to yell but some folks aren't listening. That shit melts at a pretty low temperature. Use Rocksett or another ceramic-based high-temperature adhesive. It's water-soluble and it's no harder to remove than Loctite, but it won't melt!
    Yup. Exactly Dave, why anyone would recommend blue loctite on a gas block is beyond me. As hot barrels get during fire, especially suppressed fire.

    I only trust my AR's and life with pinned gas blocks or FSB's.

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calico Jack View Post
    Is the gas block in the video the same one sold on your site? The block pictured doesn't appear to have to hole drilled for the roll pin under the barrel.
    The hole in the gas block gets drilled during the pinning process. I.e., you mount the gas block then drill one hole through both the block and the barrel.

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by UWone77 View Post
    Yup. Exactly Dave, why anyone would recommend blue loctite on a gas block is beyond me. As hot barrels get during fire, especially suppressed fire.

    I only trust my AR's and life with pinned gas blocks or FSB's.
    Can use the purple or even the red loctite - just a very tiny drop for the set screws. It all has to do with whether you think that there is a possibility after a couple hundred rounds that you will decide to change the gas block. How many thousands of rounds will get shot through the barrel before the barrel needs changing?...

    As with everything with AR's, planned usage dictates how a rifle needs to be built for it to reliably perform it's intended function.

    For me, it will take me probably around 10 years to put 5000 rounds through a barrel. I do have other rifles and I have shotguns. If a gas block will hold up for 5000 rounds, why would I spend extra to pin it?
    Freedom is NEVER Free. We have to work to protect it and even be willing to die to protect it.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHSmithIV View Post
    Can use the purple or even the red loctite - just a very tiny drop for the set screws. It all has to do with whether you think that there is a possibility after a couple hundred rounds that you will decide to change the gas block. How many thousands of rounds will get shot through the barrel before the barrel needs changing?...

    As with everything with AR's, planned usage dictates how a rifle needs to be built for it to reliably perform it's intended function.

    For me, it will take me probably around 10 years to put 5000 rounds through a barrel. If a gas block will hod up for 5000 rounds, why would I spend extra to pin it?
    Will,

    You plan to have 5k through one gun. I have 5k already though multiple guns. They all have FSB's or pinned gas blocks. You're right, usage dictates... but 5k rounds in 10 years is a very light shooting schedule, and frankly nowhere on the hard use radar. For you, yeah, you probably won't notice the difference as you average 41 rounds per month. For me, $30 to pin a gas block is money well spent.

  7. #52
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    Yea I'm not even close to UW as far as shooting regularity but I shoot about 2-3 times a months an shoot a minimum of 2-300 rounds per session. Slippers can tell you I bring enough to appease us x3 for every gun I bring, which is usually all of them. (Thank God I haven't been pulled..) He does the same I might add.

    $30 in a the scheme of things isn't much more than a box of ammo...

  8. #53
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    It's not the vibrations from shooting that loosens the set screws but the expansion and contraction during the heat cycles. No thread locking compound can prevent that type of fastener stress from causing the block to shift.

  9. #54
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    It seems the issue has already been addressed but obviously the pin is the most reliable. I personally pin all of mine and offer the service at the shop as Hmac mentioned. I've seen several gas blocks that were dimpled, even loctited, come loose at classes and matches. In addition to pinning, if customer requests we often use rocksett as well. Rocksett is easy to remove along with the pin if you ever need to remove the gas block or barrel nut. Also FWIW, I know some armorers that have used sleeving compound to seal and lock gas blocks. I can say that is very difficult to remove and requires significant heat. Melonite treated blocks and barrels are no issues to dimple or pin, just have to have the right bits.

    Thanks for the compliment Hmac, always nice to hear that folks are happy with the work.

  10. #55
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    My gas block just came loose (a little wiggle) after its second outing. I cleaned the threads, applied more Rocksett, and added more torque, I think 20"/#. We'll see how long that lasts. If it poops again, I'll replace it with an SLR adjustable, and get it pinned.

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