Results 16 to 27 of 27
-
31 July 2015, 03:55 #16
Replace the damaged part. Chalk it up to not masking and drive on. Lesson learned.
Its your first one and you're going to know that gouge is under whatever you try to cover it up with.
Next, ask yourself if you are going to shoot this rifle or look at it. Depending on the answer, either lock it in a safe, or take it out and shoot the hell out of it. In the process you'll add more marks, some insignificant, and some attached to memories. This is mojo; a reflection of the owner.There's no "Team" in F**K YOU!
-
1 August 2015, 05:13 #17New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Posts
- 11
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0
Here it is done set up as my everyday/ truck rifle... thanks again for the help!
-
1 August 2015, 05:21 #18New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Posts
- 11
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0
Noveske- Barrel (16" recce) & Gen 3 Lower
Lantac - Upper & BCG
Geissele- Rail & S3G trigger
Troy- HK BUIS
-
1 August 2015, 19:07 #19
-
1 August 2015, 22:05 #20
-
2 August 2015, 05:11 #21New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Posts
- 11
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0
"Looks great... but did you not use the shims to time the Surefire FH?" - i did not..... stupid question , but here it goes- is that just to have the suppressor controls lined up in a convenient place or does it have something to do with muzzle control- cause I've got a factory noveske, and lwrc that it doesn't seem like any thought was given to lining up the fh tangs / shim on AAC's? so i just kinda slapped it on there, where it torque stopped was it.
-
2 August 2015, 05:38 #22New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Posts
- 11
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0
and again thanks for the feedback etc. . this is kinda something i'm picking up on my own as a hobby- don't have any buddies that do it. and the gun shops around here can barely answer questions about stuff they have on the shelf- a lot of blank stares - thats why this forum is A LOT of help- thanks!
-
2 August 2015, 05:47 #23
Welcome to the sickness brother!
With a muzzle brake or compensator, it matters how it's oriented so you need to use shims (unless it just randomly happens to screw on the right way without them). But with flash hiders it's usually just an aesthetic issue; if you don't care how it looks don't bother using shims to time it.
Also, don't forget to use the included Rocksett when installing the muzzle device (whether or not you decide to use the shims). Make sure to clean the threads and then use just use a little bit of Rocksett, otherwise it will be a pain to get it off if you ever want to change it out.
-
2 August 2015, 08:26 #24WEVO Spell Checker
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Florida
- Posts
- 3,198
- Downloads
- 1
- Uploads
- 0
-
2 August 2015, 10:27 #25
Besides the shims, as DutyUse mentioned, there's also a "washer" that should be installed. Since most AR-15 barrels have a shoulder before the threads, the SF washer allows for the shoulder (it's beveled on one side) and allows the shims (or plain muzzle device) to rest on something that's known to be flat. Besides helping with suppressor alignment (which may not matter to you), it also keeps everything uniform when torquing on the muzzle device. It doesn't look like you have the barrel shoulder washer on there based on your pic.
As for where the tines go, there's a school of thought to put one tine at the 6 o'clock position, so that if you're shooting prone, the blast doesn't go straight down. I can't say if that's a worthy school of thought, but it's out there.
-
3 August 2015, 14:48 #26
Curious to what method you took to fix the gouge in the upper. One on the completed rifle looks new, can't tell it was ever gouged if it's the same upper.
-
3 August 2015, 15:51 #27New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Posts
- 11
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0
velocity2006--- the method i used was, sent more money to rainier for a new one i hadn't screwed up yet, and put the gouged one in a box to someday send out for a cerakote job when i need another project.... i wish that were the original upper