Explain your AR15 layout...

[rob_s]

I'm considering two options for a light on this. Well, possibly three.

The first is to go with the flow and move the front sight back and use the X300. Plus side on this solution is that the X300 goes on/off easily. down side is that with this configuration it moves the suport hand back a bit and exposes the lens to a lot of blast grime.

The second is to go with a Surefire Mini Scout on an IWC mount, at 1:30 (looking from the rear) so that activation is achieved by reaching over the top of the rail with the left thumb. Plus side is a better light, downside is it's not removable.

The third, less likely, option is to not put a light on it at all. It's a training gun, and it's not my only, or primary, gun so the times I would need a light are few and can be addressed by simply dragging out a different gun.

[Rodman24]

On a similar 10.3" set-up I had my light attached at 7:30 (lefty) which allowed me to have the light pushed a little further forward, and allowed for easy activation of the toggle. However, I found that the toggle was actually too close to my hand resulting in inadvertent activation. So I moved the light to the 9:00. It is still quite easy to activate with my middle finger, both momentary and constant. The addition of the VFG also seems to provide a more consistent purchase.

[rob_s]

My HD carbine has the 9.0 Troy VTAC and the X300 at 12 o'clock and a VFG, no iron sights. That setup works pretty well for me and I'm familiar with it, but this new project is an excuse to try some different/new things. Or at least different/new to me.

[TehLlama]

I've adopted the DD Fixed Front/X300 pairing simply because the front sight blocks my easiest avenue of ALD, but I can still activate the X300 whenever I do want light to pour forth. With all of my Absolute cowitness Micro Aimpoint setups I don't see myself deviating from this in the near future (I can run the flip-up rear sights I prefer, and if I need snap shooting without red dot the simple caveman alignment system gets me on target within rock-throwing distances).
As I eluded to above I actually prefer it forcing my support hand back, but that's because my orangutan appendages have a tendency to reach way far out and touch hot metal objects.

Another to consider would be an M300 (3V Scout or VTAC 3V SF E1B) mounted up there, but that would protrude farther into the blast area for not much gain. I'll probably try this on a longer handguard setup (11-12").

Anybody run a TLR-3 with a DD Fixed Front sight behind it? Might be the ticket for a lightweight packable SBR, but I have no idea how well that would work.

[rob_s]

I won't know until I have it in hand, but I think this will actually push the bezel of the scout past the flash hider. The flash hider slots end 2" past the end of the tube, so maybe not. Will play with it when I get it.

With a rigidly fixed light, and therefore the inability to remove it for training purposes, something will have to be done about the bezel.

[goteron]

Can you just put a cheapo scope cover on it?

[rob_s]

Of course. You can also just tape over it when you're training and not using it.

[Nuclear_Arms]

A bit late to this party. I was trying to figure out where to post an introduction, so it might as well be here. This is my AR, and only AR for now. I began it spring of last year with months of research. I call it my recce-ish build. I have since begun a second build, using lessons learned from this first one.



It was originally built as a general purpose do-all gun. I assembled it piece by piece over the course of eight months, with the optic coming a few months after that (so I could get lots of time with the irons). It typically rests behind the headboard of my bed with a PMAG full of 75gr TAP. I have since used this gun for competition, drills, long range (sorta...more on that later), and even toyed with the idea of hunting this season, though that one didn't pan out for other reasons.

The Upper:

Receiver is just a Spikes stripped upper. No particular reason, other than it's also a Spikes lower- I thought I'd try to stay consistent out of some faint idea that if it gets sold, people might be more willing to pay for a gun with "matching parts"



A 16" Centurion light weight CHF barrel is the main part. I chose it out of a combination of Monty's accuracy claims and the double thick chrome. I have been able to maintain about 1.75" groups at 100 yards with quality ammo. That is using an average of five 5-shot groups. I am sure it could do better, but I am by no means a great shooter and I have had some misgivings about how the barrel was mounted (it's the only thing I didn't do myself, as I didn't have the tools). The barrel is tipped with an AAC Blackout (non-mount). I never really thought the .223 recoil was enough to warrant a compensator, so I wanted great flash suppression. The AAC is shorter than the Smith, so that's what I used.



The hand guard is Seekins Precision / Spikes BAR in 10" flavor. This rail was chosen mostly because I was again trying to keep the branding consistent, but it also has some VERY nice machining. It is relatively light, and I really liked the mounting system, which is very sturdy. I went with 10” in an effort to find a balance between real estate and weight savings- I also liked the look of the pinned Centurion gas block just peeking out from the end of the hand guard.

After much use, I have found the hand guard very comfortable to hold, but maybe a bit too wide. The BAR was intended to be able to fit a suppressor within it’s inner diameter, but I don't have a suppressor or an SBR. While nice to have integrated QD swivels at several points, I do not like how it is handled on the sides towards the front end. You lose about an inch of usable rail space at these points, making it impossible to mount a light as far forward as you may want. I circumvented this by mounting the light on the top rail, and moving the front sight closer to the rear- it’s not ideal, but it works well enough. As funds free themselves, I have considered replacing this rail with a 10” or 12” Centurion C4.



The bolt carrier group is a BCM Auto, not much needs to be said there.

The primary optic is a Trijicon TR24G mounted in an ADM Recon-H mount. It seemed to be a perfect all-round optic for a general purpose rifle, and it has done extraordinarily well in that role. However, day to day, the gun is mounted with an XPS 2-0 in an ADM mount (for QD capability and a lower third cowitness)



The XPS was purchased in preparation for the next build, but seeing as that build is not moving along very fast, I went ahead and stuck it on this one to see how I liked it. Through drills and competition, I have found that I am faster with the XPS, but not by much, at least until things like VTAC barriers enter the picture. The TR24 is not so great when having to work with those smaller holes at odd angles.

Now, I really enjoy the TR24 for just about all kinds of shooting. In competition, where a stage has several targets ranging from 50 to 200 yards, this optic really shines. In the dark I don’t have a huge problem with washout, as there is still a big black spike when the light goes on- though there is a fraction of a second adjustment time for my eye when going from the glowing green triangle to looking for the big black spike. Obviously, the XPS doesn’t have that issue. I have attempted some longer range work with the TR24 and have found that out to about 250 yards (using a 100 yard zero) I can make consistent hits from just about any standard position. The longest I’ve made is 375 yards, though it was mostly a guessing game with the holdover position. With more time and practice, and probably doping the turrets, I'm sure I can improve.

The backup sights are just Magpul MBUS.

The Lower Receiver:

Spikes stripped lower. It was available locally, so that’s what I got.



The trigger is a Geissele SSA. I love it. I was raised on two stage triggers (My first two rifles before this one were a Springfield M1A Loaded and a CMP M1 Garand I had restored by DGR Guns in Tennessee). I love the consistency of it, and I am fast when need be. I don’t know how it stacks up, but I can shoot ten shots into a eight inch circle at 10 yards within 1.6 seconds- plenty fast for my uses.

The buffer is a Spikes ST-T2. It came with the buffer tube, so I used it. The recoil impulse is very smooth, but I have had some trouble with Hornady 55gr training rounds short stroking. That’s the only ammo I’ve had issues with so far- though I’ve never shot wolf.

The ACS was chosen for the nice big footprint and the storage capacity. As I originally built the gun for handling just about anything I wanted to do, I expected that I might need to carry along batteries.

The MIAD is pretty self explanatory.

Other accessories:

The light is an Elzetta ZFL-M60 mounted with a Gear Sector. It puts out 235 lumens. I’ve since found this is probably excessive for indoor uses, but it works great outside at night, and actually nicely compliments the TR24.

The Tango Down Stubby QD is something I use more like a hand stop than a foregrip, bracketing my hand at the front of the hand guard.

I originally used the ASAP plate with an MS2 sling. I have since switched the sling out for a padded VCAS, but still using the ASAP plate with a MASH hook and an IWC tri-glide to emulate the 2 point or single point sling capability of the MS2.

I have a 3 Gun Stuff cat tail on the TR24, works as intended.

I also have a BAD lever. I've never had an issue with it, and it is nice to have when doing malfunction drills. But I'm unsure if I'll buy another for the next gun.

Lessons Learned for the next build:

While this rifle is not light weight, it really isn’t terribly heavy either. However, the next build is using a factory assembled BCM 16” LW middy upper with MOE hand guards.

I’ve never been terribly satisfied with how the upper was assembled. I was going to send it off to ADCO or VA Arms, but ended up taking it to one of the local gunsmiths. I watched him do it in order to “learn.” But was not very happy with his methodology. If/when I replace the spikes rail with a centurion, I have struck up a deal with the CATM armorers on base (I’m in the Air Force) to do it.

The flash hider is fantastic, but It’s looking like I’m going to be stationed in California within a year, so I need to start looking into compensators for the next build, as well as this one.

Other than that, I’ve been very satisfied with this gun. It has done everything I’ve asked of it, and only suffered two malfunctions (both were short strokes with weak ammo) in about 3,000 shots fired.


Wow...that was long. If you got this far, thanks for reading...I hope I met the intent of this thread.

[cooleststud]

I love my M4, and I put a LOT of money into it and it will continue to be upgraded until I just buy a new one.
It is a beast and I have put almost 3000 rounds through it and it has preformed spectacular.





Full load out....
: SOG M4 5.56/.223 with Flip Up Iron Sights
: Grip Pod
: Elcan 1.5 x 6 Sight
: Custom Ejection Port Cover
: Magpul MIAD Pistol Grip
: Magpul Trigger Guard
: Magpul B.A.D. Lever
: CAA Tactical CBSM Stock
: SOG Oversized Safety/Selector Switch
: Receiver End Plate Sling Attachment - Double Looped
: Ergo Rail Covers
: VLTOR Charging Handle
: Chrome Bolt & Bolt Carrier
: D-Fender Extractor Enhancer
: YHM Phantom 5.56 Q.D. Flash Hider
: YHM Titanium Phantom 5.56 Sound Suppressor

When I started looking into what type of optic I wanted I had people suggesting and pulling me in two directions.
1 - Just use a red dot or a holographic sight
2 - Go with an ACOG because it has the advantage of magnifying your target.

After a lot of research and deciding to spend a lot of money, I decided on the Specter DR Elcan 1.5 x 6 sight.
This sight can handle anything, and it does. After I got it I took it to Afghanistan where it worked flawlessly.

Why I love it..... As simply stated on the web site...
The Specter DR multi-function combat day sight is a revolutionary optical design that combines the best of close combat and precision fire ranging features into a single, low profile dual-field-of view (DFOV) sight. The Specter DR 1.5-6x dual role sight gives machine gun operators and designated marksmen a sweeping 1.5x view of the battlefield for target acquisition, then allows instant switching to 6x for accurate, long range precision fire and suppression.
Situational awareness in both magnifications is improved with wider viewing angles and unmatched light transmission in low light conditions.

Basically...
: Can be used as a red dot site by having the ability to illuminate a red dot or the entire crosshair reticle.
: The sight's 6x magnification is great to use like an ACOG.
: Switches instantly from close combat (1.5x) to telescopic (6x) in less than 1 second and the illumination works in both positions.
: The crosshairs are etched into the glass
: Integrated back-up iron sights are bore sighted to scope
: Waterproof at 66 feet for 2 hours minimum
: Shockproof to 450 g's
: Battery lasts for 300 hrs minimum at maximum brightness
Downside ?? I don't think so but other may. It does weigh a bit at 700g (1.54 lbs)






For full specs you can go to http://www.elcansightingsystems.com/...ole_sights.php


http://www.flickr.com/photos/cooleststud/

Let me know what you think, any questions or suggestions. I would love to hear about them

United States Marine Corps (MOS 1833 - Amphibious Assault Vehicle) - 3rd Amphibious Assault Battalion, Bravo Company - Camp Pendleton, California - 1999 to 2003
United States Marine Corps Reserve (MOS 03113 - Light Armored Vehicle) - 4th Light Armored Reconnaissance Battalion, Charlie Company - Camp Williams, Utah - 2004 to 2007
United States Army National Guard (12B - Combat Engineer) - 1457th Engineer Battalion, Sapper Company - Camp Williams, Utah - 2009 to Present
Operation Enduring Freedom (OEF) 2010-2011 - FOB Salerno, Khost Providence, Afghanistan - Route Clearance Operations


"Those who see War on TV, in Movies or heard about it second hand make your decisions about War based on 98% fiction and 2% fact. Those of us, who have lived, breathed, and felt the wrath and percussions of War live with it daily, and for the rest of our lives.”

[xbmxracerx]

[IMG][/IMG]

http://www.youtube.com/user/emufreak.../2/VL7FIsv4DSA

To follow the format I chose a mid length Daniel Defense Carbine.

Weapon:
Daniel Defense DDM4v3

Misc accessories:
Hogue pistol grip (the stock AR15 pistol grip....well do I need to say more?)
Magpul BAD lever (which has been a great addition to the weapon for efficiency purposes)


BCM Mod 4 charging handle (the medium latch makes a huge difference one handed-although muscle memory allows me to manipulate a stock charging handle with no problem as well)


Battle Arms Developement AMBI Safety (more efficient way to put back on safe while moving)



Surefire MiniScout 300a Weapon light with the SR-07 dual switch (can't mess with the reputation...lightweight and powerful)


Spikes Tactical Goodies:
Stubby forward grip (the Daniel Defense one was nice but too long for me. The billet stubby is a nice addition)


Billet trigger guard (swapped for the stock MOE)


ST-T2 Buffer (Tungsten powder as opposed to the weights...I think it's smoother)


Chrome BCG and Bolt (can always use a spare)


Optics:
I chose the Trijicon TA31RCO-M4CP over the Eotech and Aimpoint (for this build) because my shooting is med to long range (T-1 for my SBR)
Swapped the stock mount for the ARMS lever mount.


BUIS:
Went with Troy for obvious reasons (the Daniel Defense A1.5 sight was nice but with the ACOG, was not an option so I chose the flip which tucks nicely under the Trijicon)


Flash Hider:
Chose the YHM 5C2 comp (nice recoil management)


Stock:
Upgraded recently to the Vltor IMOD (better cheek weld and storage than the stock MOE)


Complete specs:
Daniel Defense DDM4v3 : Trijicon RCO-M4CP ACOG w/ A.R.M.S. #19 LD mount : Bravo Company Gunfighter Mod 4 charging handle : Troy/Spike's rear BUIS : Spike's M16 BCG : Spike's ST-T2 buffer : Spike's billet trigger guard : Spike's forward grip : Battle Arms Development ambi safety : YHM 5C2 flash hider : Surefire M300A miniscout weapon light w/ SR-07 dual switch : Magpul B.A.D. lever : Magpul P-Mags w/ ranger plates : Vltor IMOD stock : Hogue pistol grip.......Kershaw/Daniel Defense knife.....Contour HD 1080P Camera.....


A few changes since this post:
The Geissele SSA trigger.....smooth and consistant



Went to a 45 ST on the BAD ASS safety


Picked up the Aimpont T1 with the KAC mount for some training I'm helping some local PD's with..

Pretty happy with it so far...
After zero --- 25y poa/poi

50y poa below orange circle



Finally....my new case...the Pelican SOPMOD



Another new addition to the fam.......

[Drudishauser]

Hey everyone, my first post here at Weapon Evolution, and my first AR, a Panther Arms Oracle 16" Carbine:

Heres how it started:




And then the evolution began...



Upper/Lower Receiver: DPMS Panther Arms Oracle.
Why? I got a REALLY good deal on it.

Handguard: YHM Diamond Carbine-Length FF QR.
Why? I love the look of the diamond series.

Sights: Main- EoTech 516
Why? Love EoTechs! Tough, durable, and fast target acquisition.
BUIS: Magpul MBUS front and rear
Why? Fairly inexpensive and very durable.

Grips: Magpul MOE+ and Magpul MOE vert grip
Why? Why not? The MOE+ has a really nice positive grip, but not too sticky. The vert is the perfect length and I like it.

Stock: Magpul ACS
Why? Very sold stock. With the friction lock, it doesnt wobble at all! Very solid and has several storage compartments.

Other additions:
-Streamlight TLR-1 weapon light
-Over-sized charging handle lever
-Magpul BAD lever
-Magpul Rail guards
-Magpul ASAP

[Drudishauser]

Anyone have any comments, suggestions, opinion? I am completely aware that this is the beauty of AR style platforms, the ability to make it your own. But of course I'm always open to opinions and such. There's a lot of really great setups on here. Wish I had the money to really do what I want to do to it but I think it performs just fine as it is. I'm happy with it. :)

[AR-dad]

Hi all, my brother-in-law is a big AR fan, and set out to build a best-of-best components AR. After I finished building it for him, I would say that it is a sniper rig minus optics (fancy speak for too heavy to do anything but sit on a bipod and shoot paper).
This is my very first build and was after almost 12 years away from firearms (no money to spare). Here is a rundown of the parts I remember using:
upper- Spike's tactical
lower - Spike's tactical
barrel - Stag Arms Match barrel (I believe)
compensator - PWS
Rail - Daniel Defense (I have a new hatred for allen screws because of this piece)
buttstock - ERGO F93 Pro Stock
Pistol grip - magpul
Bolt - Adams Arms (piston)
sights - Spike's Tactical
Buffer Assembly - Spike's Tactical

Like I stated before, his vision for this was a best-of-breed build, so to speak. I am looking forward to my next build whenever I can swing it.








** I realized the rear sight was backwards after photo**


**did some color fill for him too. Sorry the image sucks.**

Thanks to him and all the great info I am getting here, my true passion has been resurrected.

[lmtrocks]

My primary is a 10.5" SBR in 7.62x39
Aimpoint Micro R1 in a Larue 660
Noveske QD endplate
SOPMOD
Daniel Defense MFR handguard
YHM 762 QD FH
Barrel contoured to .700 behind the gas block
MBUS
TLR-1


I chose the 7.62x39 round simply because of the available ammunition which is very cost effective. Early on I had a little trouble getting the gun to run correctly, but that was simply because I had a 16" carbine barrel and a local AR MFG threaded it for me. It was up to me to figure out the gas port size. Finally arrived a 3/32 (.094) and it has run like a champ since then. It required a Model 1 Sales 7.62x39 enhanced firing pin which has been worth every penny of the $25 I paid for it. I have put 2830 rounds through the weapon since it's birth.

The Aimpoint R1 was purchased simply due to the price. Midway closing them out at $300 about 15 months ago put a great deal in a bunch of people's hands. I didn't buy it at that time, but found a great deal on TOS and decided to purchase. I have not regretted it one bit. The pictured mount is an ADM, but have since switched to the Larue 660 which gives lower 1/3 cowitness. It comes off when I want to run MBUS only, and remains on for 5 years according to Aimpoint. I believe them.


The YHM 762QD is on the gun because I am going to eventually own my first suppressor. I purchased the YHM 762 Ti back in November because I found a great deal on it at $849 shipped. I got the last one at the dealer, and the Form 4 is pending since 03Jan2012 so I know I have a few months to go. It will be worth the wait.


The SOPMOD stock is a wonderful piece, ergonomically, and how it provides watertight storage for both CR123s and a copy of the Form 1 for my registered lower. The lower itself is a LMT and the upper is also LMT that I decided to rebarrel after having both of them cerakoted. I find it somewhat interesting that LMT is now supplying 5.45, 762x39, and 300blk on their MRP uppers. I believe this is going to be a qualitative jump for the industry simply because of the options it provides shooters now.

The Daniel Defense MFR is a great forearm. I think DD hit the ball out of the park with this system, except they didn't make it stop at T39....so I machined it down and it's worked perfectly on my gun. It's a very lightweight offering, and installs with a barrel nut that does not need timing to the gas tube port in the upper receiver. You hit your torque spec and reinstall the gas tube/block. Slide the rail over the barrel nut and tighten 4 setscrews down. It is a solid attachment---I've flogged my SBR since installing it and even removed it to have the barrel contoured. I am glad they made it.

The Noveske QD endplate provides a very strong attachment point for your sling. I run a singlepoint and appreciate how I can switch from support to strong and back to support side shooting rather quickly. It is not as clingy or noisy as the Magpul ASAP, which this replaced. I will install this on every lower I have now.


Now to get additional uppers built to finish off my projects so I can write more on those guys.

[Gun]

My first AR-15 assembly project (AP), gave me my first AR of any kind, in a pistol configuration. My interest in a AR pistol was that I could carry it loaded, in a vehicle, with my LTCF. So why not? Secondary, I would later acquire a 16” upper and a stock, then do some swapping to have a rifle with the same lower. But, I’ll probably get another lower and just assemble a rifle. That bridge is off in the distance.

My AP started with acquiring a lower from PSA, during their christmas sale. For 49.95, what the heck. Then I acquired the PSA Pistol-LPK, which included the MagPul endplate and an H Buffer. For the upper, I chose the LMT 10.5 barrel that included the BCM handguards, a BCM BCG, and a BCM Mod 5 CH. Topping it off, rear sighting is done with a Troy Flip Up Battle Sight.

I read quite a bit on these different parts. That is what search engines are for, find information from those who have ask these questions before, or I could have started a thread, “10.5 or 12” barrel?”. There were already plenty of opinions to be had, on several forums.

The PSA lower, from their website;

These forged lowers are quality made using material is 7075-T6 and are*marked "CAL MULTI" to accommodate most builds. *Finish is Black Hardcoat Anodize per MIL-8625 Type 3 class 2.

Doesn’t seem bad for a 49.95 part (79.95 reg.). Their lower parts kit also seem of decent quality, but this was the first kit I had ever handled. Assembly was fairly easy, and passed the initial functions test. Total cost 162.00, inc. shipping. Now, I wanted an OAL > 26”, but not by much! If I decided on a FVHG, I would not need a tax stamp, if OAL > 26”. A 10.5 barrel was the ticket, and LMT had the upper, and I really don’t have to tell you guys about LMT, do I? Nor do I have to tell you about BCM BCGs, or their charging handles. I splurged for the upper parts, as I had already put together a lower for less than 2 bills! Besides, the thought of an SBR down the road did cross my mind, hence the LMT 10.5.

First 100 rds of Fed 55 223 was without incident, except when I stuffed a mag in the firearm, took aim, then fired, and nothing. I grabbed an empty mag! Geesh. Now I can tell you with certainty that resting your cheek on a bare metal RE, is not the most pleasant thing to do. So I wrapped the RE with handlebar grip tape. For 14.95, I have enough to re-tape it twice, and the stuff is made for blood sweat and tears. Really didn’t want a spider next to my cheek. The tape made all the difference, especially since the temps have been in the 30’s. Also acquired an ST-T2, which had little improvement, but it is a 10.5 barrel.

Second trip, shot 100 rds of Fed 55, and adjusted iron sights. Third trip, shot 100 rds Fed 55, 100 rds AE 55 (both felt the same), and 15 rds Hornady Varmit 55. With Hornady, one failure to strip and chamber last rd. No other failures. Can shot from 25 yds, with 80% inside 7 ring, and 99 percent on target. First time shooting irons, other than true handgun, in a really long time. On optics, when I can shoot grps of five, on target, at 100 yds, I’ll get an optic. As far as other doodads, I’ll do some research first, but would rather buy ammo for now!

Since I'm neither military or law enforcement, this AR is for all other legal reasons.