Explain your AR15 layout...

[Curlyburns5]

Cameron, what is the reason for going with an 11.5" barrel when you eventually have to replace the 10.5"?


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?1dtpnb

[Cameron]

VERY nice.

Thanks, they are great to shoot.

Cameron, what is the reason for going with an 11.5" barrel when you eventually have to replace the 10.5"?

I want to keep the 10" rail and is is causing me problems with mounting a suppressor. So the extra inch should give me the clearance I need to mount the can. If I figure out a solution I would keep the 10.5" barrel as I want the SBR as short as possible.

Cameron

[SuicideMyk]

Just got my upper and lower today

This is my first ever AR-15 build. After months of researching and looking at thousands of AR's I decided I really liked Seekins and this is where I want to start off, it's gonna be fun [8D]

So far the only parts I bought is the Timney single stage skeletonized 3lb trigger, Battle Arms BADD ASS Safety Selector and Stag Arms LPK... I'm still looking at stocks and grips, probably gonna go with Mag Pul to finish off the lower...

The Upper I'm going to get the Seekins Float Quad Rail with the Noveske 16" 5.56 barrel..

[TangoSauce]

Cameron, maybe I'm overlooking this in your post, but what QD attachment is that on your rail?

[Cameron]

Cameron, maybe I'm overlooking this in your post, but what QD attachment is that on your rail?

Daniel Defense Rail Mount QD Swivel Attachment Point
https://danieldefense.com/mounts/sli...ent-point.html

[david24]

good post..A few AR-15 manufacturers incorporate the use of a hybrid chamber specification known as the Wylde chamber.

[wkp2]

Greetings to all,

This is my first post. I have lurked here for quite some time. I love the site, and find it to be a great resource. I shoot an issued M4 for work, and while it is set up one way, it is not MY way. I purchased a Colt 6940 in 2009 and sadly it sat in a safe for nearly a year before I started outfitting it the way I wanted it. For most of that time it was just an iron sighted tack driver.

Once I started thinking about what I wanted the rifle to do, I decided that I wanted my personally owned rifle to be outfitted similarly to my issued one due to familiarity with parts. Then, I started feeling and touching and sampling other components that were out there and realized that this gun would likely go through a constant morphing as I added and subtracted different ones on my way to assembling my preferred configuration. One thing that remained constant was that I wanted it to be somewhat simple. It needs a red dot, light, sling, and usually wears a VFG. I have not delved into the realm of suppressors, sbrs, and other such things YET. Currently this is my only AR, though I doubt that will be the case for too long.



If that worked, That is a picture of the rifle as it sits today.




I went with an aimpoint M2 because its simple to use, inexpensive, and proven. I didn't have to wonder "what if it sucks/breaks/doesn't work right?" because there are thousands of them out in real world circumstances much tougher than anything I will put it through. The battery life is not stellar by today's standards, but it hasn't been a problem either. My issue rifle has an EOtech 512 on it and I am just not a fan of the "busy" display it uses. The simple red dot is plenty, and much quicker for me to acquire.



I am running a FENIX led light and mount. I chose this light because it was incredibly inexpensive, and I have not completely decided what type of light/mount/position I want on this rifle. A local store was selling the light and mount together for cheap so I picked it up. Right now I have it set on the left side of the gun so I can access it with my right thumb when using the vfg. I am left handed so if this looks awkward, there you go. My issue gun uses a Surefire M900 which I have mixed feelings on. I think its a cool idea, but something about its weight and position of the vfg isn't right for me. If/when I decide on a different light setup, the little FENIX light can go into a backpack or something. It seems durable, and you can't have too many flashlights.



I use the factory stock. It is one thing from my issue rifle that I want to keep. Maybe its weird but I am so used to where my cheek and nose line up with my work gun, that I want to replicate that on my personal one. IDK why this aspect has to stay the same for me when I change so much else, but other stocks just don't FEEL right for me. Not to mention, its light, adjustable, and certainly works for any use I have come up with. I put this in the category of not fixing it unless/until its broken.



Something I never liked about the AR platform was the A2 grip. Its thin, oddly shaped and makes for an unnatural grip. I chose the Magpul MIAD because it allowed for the thickest grip from front to back as well as a slightly higher up gripping position for me. The ergonomics of this grip are superb, and provide me with a much greater feeling of control over the rifle.



Up front I use a Magpul VFG. I replaced some other vfg from a brand I cannot recall. It was big, thick, heavy, and loose fitting. It was also very inexpensive. The Magpul grip allows me to be a little more indecisive with my forward grip as I alternate between using the vfg as a grip and using it as a hand stop when I grip the rails instead. I go back and forth on which I prefer depending on how much and how I shoot.

Also visible are XTM panels. These rails get warm, and I thought those would help. They certainly cannot hurt anything.

I use a 2 point adjustable sling. This may change to a one point in the future. The sling is a work in progress as it is another item that I don't love, but don;t hate either.

As it sits, this rifle weighs in at about 9 pounds unloaded. I use a combination of Magpul and USGI magazines all with the Magpul followers.


Again, great site, and I look forward to reading more. Enjoy!

[Stickman]

Good info, and nice carbine.

[Hatter]

So this would be my attempt at a tack driving, 3 gun rifle.

Seekins Billet Upper and Lower - Lower was chosen for the bolt release and the different styling. Upper was chosen to match the lower and to allow for use of the iMRT rail. I didn't care much for the "geometric" style of the Seekins 3-gun rail so I went with the standard round rail. Its incredibly light and has a 15" length.

UBR stock, MIAD grip ad LMT ambi selector give me familiarity with my other rifles although the UBR adds some not-needed weight. It does, however balance well with the 18" SS bbl. I chose the Rainier UM bbl for accuracy with Wylde chamber and mid gas system. Gas block is a low profile Rainier that was drilled for pinning. The bolt and bolt carrier group are also Rainier, chrome thunderbolt. I wanted the ease of cleaning and added lubricity of the chrome carrier.

Trigger is a Geissele SSA. I wanted a simple robust trigger with clean break and short reset. I didn't see a need for the more expensive SD3G trigger. To keep with the ambi-controls I installed the Norgon ambi-mag release. This was more an experiment than anything else. I love the functionality and quality but its worth vs. cost remains to be proven. The remainder of the lower parts are RRA - cost effective when ordering individual springs, detents, etc.

Rounding out the upper is a Surefire MB55K brake, Surefire DD offset irons and a Vortex 1-4 PST optic in a LaRue SPR mount. I wanted a good competition muzzle brake and the reviews for the MB556K seemed favorable. Since there is a chance I grab a can down the road I also wanted the ability to attach to this rifle (another experiment). The optic choice was driven by a few criteria: cost, variable down to 1x, illuminated reticle and quality. The Vortex seemed to be the best option for all of these. While it is definitely not the most high end scope it is definitely great enough quality for me and feels very robust. The LaRue SPR mount is a no brainer for quality and robustness. (Yes, I'm a LaRue whore)

I literally just finished assembly last night. Did final checks and lube today and will be behind it at the range tomorrow!!!!

[lamarbrog]

My rifle is basically an M16A4 clone. I have no training on the M16A4, have never held a real one, I just happen to really like the configuration. The longer gas system and the added weight that comes with this configuration really makes it a mild shooter. The longer sight radius is a huge benefit to me since I am not using optics. I tried an TA31F-G ACOG from Trijicon for a while, but find I tend to shoot more quickly and more accurately using iron sights. Especially considering I rarely shoot beyond 300 yards with this rifle, the ACOG was a nuisance more than anything else. I might try out an Aimpoint Micro T-1, but am having a hard time justifying it considering I don't feel handicapped by the iron sights. The Daniel Defense A1.5 is a great rear sight.

The really mild recoil on this rifle also makes it great for teaching new shooters who are ready to move beyond .22LR.

The rail system is in place primarily because it provides a very secure way of attaching a QD socket for a sling. Besides, I got the rail system for really cheap, and couldn't pass it up. The extra weight is a little annoying, but not really that big of a deal.

I prefer the A2 stock since it doesn't wobble, and I usually keep the stocks of carbines at full extension anyway. I also like the ability to have a cleaning rod on the rifle just in case I need to clear a stuck case. I also like fixed stocks because, while I am currently clean shaven, I was rocking the lumberjack look for a while and collapsible stocks always ended up pinching and ripping out my beard hairs. It hurt, and if not kept in check would eventually cause an unsightly bald patch... hey, don't laugh, it's a legitimate issue.

(Edit to add: One thing I do not like about the A2 stock is that it doesn't work well with my TAG Marine Gladiator chest rig. The padded shoulder straps in combination with a stock that is already full length is not ideal. I make due, since most of my shooting is not done with a chest rig on, and it isn't really a problem, just annoying.)

I really like the VTAC sling. Sometimes I get annoyed at the tail, but having the ability to secure the rifle across my back and use my hands without having to find a good place to lean it or lay it on the floor is convenient.

Parts List:
Lower:
Interarms ISA-15 Lower Half
Colt's Mfg A2 Stock
Upper:
Palmetto State Armory Upper Half with FN Barrel
Knight's Armament Company M5 Rail Adapter System
Accoutrements:
Daniel Defense A1.5 Rear Sight
Daniel Defense QD Sling Swivel
Blue Force Gear A2 Stock adapter
Viking Tactics Wide Padded Sling (Coyote)
Brownell's AR15 Buttstock Cleaning Kit

Intended Role:
I try to be realistic about what my needs are. Chances are, this rifle will never be fired in anger. It will mostly just give me enjoyment on the weekends, hopefully holding tight groups from a bench or prone while being smooth to shoot. The most noble thing it will likely ever do is give some new shooters an introduction to the AR15 in a mild recoiling, accurate package. However, I did try to go with parts of sufficient quality that I feel comfortable trusting my life to it if that need arises- I feel like I have found a balance that gives me the best of both worlds.

Same configuration as above, except I am now cowitnessing with an AimPoint PRO. I like it better than the ACOG, but at the range yesterday I still found myself pulling off the optic because I liked the iron sights better. One weird thing is that the irons are zeroed, and the optic is zeroed... but when I use the irons with the optic on, the dot is not where it "should" be. I don't know... I guess it works.

I wish I could like optics. They're cool. The only reason I am even considering keeping the AimPoint is for low light conditions.

[goteron]

I think I am finally finished with this gun. I'm setting up a second just like it, and selling everything else. It's everything I need, nothing I don't. And I am very happy with it for my purposes, the only thing I may mess with is the optic.



1. LWRC Lower - A quality lower that I SBR'd before I knew better about LWRC. Its quality and within spec (Ive actually checked)
2. DD Upper - The best upper in the business IMO.
3. DD CHF 10.5" Barrel - Again, CHF quality barrel.
4. Troy TRX Extreme 9" Rail - I prefer tube rails, they are easier for me to grab, lighter weight, and I dont need rails anywhere else except the top
5. DD BCG - Again, high quality, excellent QC, and vetted
6. Extra Power Extractor Spring with Buffer - To Aid in extraction for a dirty gun, out of spec brass, etc
7. Vltor A5 with VLTOR Buffer and Spring - I previously was an A5 hater, but it does actually work, and doesnt cost much more than a quality Receiver extension
8. Magpul MOE Stock - Lightweight, Low profile, I don't need the friction lock, and use a Receiver Sling mount, so cheaper than the CTR
9. Noveske QD End Plate - Excellent design, Steel, and I prefer a receiver connection for the sling
10. Magpul MOE + Grip - I like the grip angle and profile. The rubber help keeps my hand in position when wet / slippery. If the rubber wears off, I will go to a MOE and stipple it.
11. BAD 45 Degree Throw Safety - Its quicker to get back on safety for transitions, carbine movement behind cover, running, etc. It also has a more positive feel than any other safety I have used.
12. Gunfighter Charging Handle - I prefer the medium latch, its easier for me to grab with gloves, and stronger than the aftermarket latches available. I havent had it snag yet, but am on the lookout
13. Geiselle SSA trigger - A great combat grade 2 stage trigger, the only one I would trust, non-adjustable, and just easier for me to shoot than a GI single Stage
14. Magpul Bad Lever - Its quicker for me to drop the bolt, and hold it open during malfunction drills. It has not affected the operation of the gun as its setup now, if it did, even 1 time, I would lose it.
15. Magpul Gen 2 MBUS BUIS - Lightweight, low profile, quick to deploy, and cheap. I like that they collapse when put under pressure. They hold zero, and I don't feel the need for the Troys, although they are bomber
16. Aimpoint T-1 4moa - Very lightweight, long battery life, and a good dot. High reliability. I usually keep it brighter than most people for quicker acquisition agaisnt contrasted targets. I may give a good 1-6 or Eotech a try on the timer. The T-1 is the fastest optic I have run in close. I can make good hits at distance with it.
17. Larue 660 Mount - The best T-1 mount in existence. Return to 0, though I never take it off, lightweight, and QD
18. Surefire M300a Mini-Scout - Single Cell, small, light, and best mounting system. Accepts surefires excellent pressure switches
19. Mount-n-slot Scout Mount - As close as direct mounting as I can get, light, and I can mount it at 11 o'clock forward. I would direct mount it, but then I couldn't easily get the can off.
20. LDI Class 1 OTAL IR Laser - A very simple to use interface, I don't need an illuminator, light, small, its direct mounted
21. Surefire SR-D-IT Dual Pressure Pad - Works for both light and laser, allows me to keep overhand grip and prevent white light ND's
22. Mount-n-Slot Flush Sling Cup - Light, and very low profile, Rotation limited, works great with the TRX
23. Magpul MOE VFG - Light, easy to direct mount (With modification) and works well with the TRX. Plenty strong. Works as a handstop when shooting, and perfect support for odd shooting positions
24. Mount-n-slot hand stop - To keep from shooting myself in the hand with a short barrel, direct mounting, lightweight, and low profile
25. AAC Blackout - A great flash-hider, required for suppressor. Not loud like a brake.
26. VTAC Sling - Adjusted, cut to length. Excellent quick adjustments, can be used as a shooting and carriage sling.
27. Magpul PMAGS or Lancer AWM5 Mags - Cheap, work well, and not metal
28. AAC Mini-4 Suppressor - THe lightest weight, shortest can on the market (AAC anyway). No blowback, only 14 ounces, and adds 3 inches past the FH. Suppression isnt #1 for me, but no back-pressure is huge

[tpelle]

As you can see from the following pics, I'm a fan of the 20" rifle.



Currently I have two. The top rifle is set up as a NRA Service Rifle competition rifle, while the bottom one is a sort of general purpose plinker and home defense rifle. I'll explain the top rifle first

As I said, this one is set up as a service rifle for competition, so it has to conform to the rules for that category of competition. Basically it must have the outward appearance of a standard issue M16-A2. Internally a LOT of changes and upgrades are permitted. This particular rifle was my first AR, and started out as a Del-Ton rifle kit. Once I started shooting it, and having gotten interested in competition, over time I rebuilt it to suit that purpose. About the only thing Del-Ton that is left is the upper receiver, the bolt carrier, the charging handle, dust cover, and forward assist.

The barrel is free-floated under the handguards, which are hogged out to fit over the free-float tube.

The barrel itself is a White Oak stainless steel 1:7 twist competition barrel with a Wylde chamber and a front sight base that is windage-adjustable by means of two set screws that bear against flats milled into the barrel. In this manner you can adjust the windage POI to be zeroed with the rear sight centered, leaving you the maximum adjustment either way with the rear sight. Here's a close-up of the business end of the free-float tube, and the front sight base"



Note also that the front sling swivel is not mounted on the front sight base, but instead is welded to the front of the free-float tube. The sling, by the way, is a Turner Saddlery 1903 leather sling, which is pretty common in that venue. Moving the sling swivel to the free-float tube allows the shooter to sling up very tightly without pulling the barrel sideways and throwing the shots way left.

The rear sight is an Armalite 1/4 x 1/4 minute match sight, and the aperture has been replaced with a Micro-Sight (http://www.auburnscouts.com/stalling...microsight.htm), which is a new sight that has a diffraction lens in it (as opposed to a refraction lens) that allows the distant target and the front sight post to both be simultaneously in focus. This is a major boon to someone like me with almost 60-year old eyes.



Remember, in NRA Service Rifle, the course of fire is shot with iron sights at 200, 300, and 600 yards.

Last is the lower receiver, which is a Doublestar forged lower holding a two-stage competition trigger by X-Treme Shooting Products LLC. (http://x-tremeshooting.com/index.php...R-15%20trigger). The owner of X-Treme happens to be in the same club as am I, and as a courtesy to club members who purchase his trigger he installs and adjusts it himself. This was the first Doublestar lower he had worked on, and he remarked that it was well made and everything was in spec.

Now for the second rifle, which I refer to as my "Kentucky Long Rifle".

But first a little background. As it happens, I have a friend and co-worker who sometimes lets his enthusiasm overreach his pocketbook. He had decided that he wanted an AR-15, and had decided to buy a rifle kit and assemble the lower himself. I advised him that a local gun shop had a bunch of Doublestar lowers in stock for $129.00. So one evening he drives over there, and finds that they currently had them on sale for $99.00! So he decides to buy THREE! One to use for his rifle, and two more as "investments". Well I bet that if his precious-metal investment strategy had been in gold or silver instead of anodized black aluminum his wife would have looked at the matter differently, but when she saw the credit card bill, suddenly two of the receivers went up for sale. So I scored a private-sale receiver for $99.00 + tax, for a total of $106.00. So now I had a receiver with no rifle. What was a man to do?

I started browsing the web and looking at uppers, and thinking about what I wanted to buy. I ended up deciding on another 20" rifle, but this time with an A4 flat-top receiver. The next problem was finding someone that had a receiver in stock WITHOUT the M4 feed ramps, as well as a 20" rifle barrel. The only online vendor that could fill my order in any sort of timely fashion was J&T Distributing in Winchester, KY. J&T happens to be under the same corporate umbrella as Doublestar, as well as ACE rifle stocks. Now J&T was not my first choice, simply because, as a Kentucky resident myself, buying from J&T added another 6% to the cost of my rifle in Kentucky sales tax. Also I had never bought from J&T before and so they were an unknown quality situation - but after surviving a Del-Ton rifle kit I figured I could make anything work. So I placed my order.

Since both the lower receiver and the assembled upper were sourced out of Winchester Kentucky, hence my designation of "Kentucky Long Rifle" (but with a modern twist).

Less than a week later it arrived, and I admit that I was quite pleased. The first thing I did was drop one of those laser-in-a-cartridge boresighting lasers in it, and I was pleased to discover that front sight appeared to be dead-on for windage. It has, by the way, a chrome-lined Shaw barrel with a 5.56 chamber and 1:9 rifling. I assembled the LPK in my Doublestar lower, and found that the fit of the upper to the lower was absolutely perfect. Initially I installed a removable carry handle rear sight, and with a box of cheap Remington bulk 55 grain ammo I went to the range.

I'd like to say that the range trip went perfectly, but as it turns out the ejector was shaving a lot of brass off of those soft Remington cases. After 28 rounds I was getting failures-to-extract because the extractor groove was filled with brass dust. Also, using my preferred 50-yard zero, I was unable to get it zeroed for elevation (windage, however, needed only two clicks left) as the front sight post was a little too short. I replaced the original front sight post with one that is 0.040" taller, which took care of the sighting-in issue.

For the ejector, I ended up removing it, chucking it in an electric drill, and running it VERY BRIEFLY against an oiled Arkansas stone - just enough to remove the sharp edge left over from manufacturing. Basically the idea is not to chamfer or round-over the ejector, but just to get rid of the sharp edge. If you can see any more than a thin bright line around the edge of the ejector, then you took too much off. Anyway, my next range session, which consisted of 98 rounds fired, exhibited NO brass shaving using the same soft ammo.

I decided to put a Red-Dot sight on the rifle, and settled on a Vortex StrikeFire. My son has been using one for a couple of years now on his AR-10 with good results, they have a great warranty, and they are available from Cabelas for $149.00 including the absolute co-witness mount and a 2x magnifier. I also added a Magpul rear BUIS.

I have the storage compartment in the A2 stock full of a G.I. cleaning kit (emergency use only - I normally use a Dewey coated one-piece rod), plus a small bottle of CLP, a broken-case extractor, and a lens cleaning microfiber cloth in a zip lock bag. I wanted a place to store an extra battery for a Red-Dot, so I bought a DPMS rubber pistol-grip plug, and keep a spare battery in there. I also added a buttstock magazine pouch to hold a 30-round magazine, which I load down to 28 rounds. By the way, when I was looking for mags for this rifle, I ran across a sale at Brownells where I bought seven 30-rounders for $9.99 each.

All in all I'm quite happy with this rifle. After fixing the ejector issue, plus a slight tweak to the gas tube to align it perfectly, as opposed to just good enough, I find it to be accurate and reliable. With the 50-yard initial crossing the trajectory of my normal M-193 style loads deviate only about 2" over line of sight out to the next crossing of about 225 yards. Plenty of range for my use.

Last addition was a sling. I decided I'd go "modern all-the-way" and put on a top-mounted sling. I tried some out at the range, though, and found two things that troubled me. First, most of them seemed over complicated, with all sorts of sliders and buckles and adjustments, and they seemed to, for the most part, require some other sort of mounting hardware usually found on a carbine buttstock, or they had to be tied on using parachute cord. Secondly it was rare to find one that was advertised as long enough to fit a 20" rifle. So I ended up home-brewing one for now. First, for the rear attachment, I used the back half of an old Israeli sling mount - the one made for an A1 rifle that usually used a big triangular "paper clip" looking thing to attach the sling to the FSB. I simply threaded the rear strap, which was a simple strap with a loop sewn in one end and a D-ring on the other end, through the mag pouch and around the buttstock. For the front mount I had a quick-release buckle from Boonie Packer, which I looped through the FSB. I like the quick release feature as a way of ditching the rifle if I ever fell in any deep water (no matter how light you think your rifle is, it will still be too heavy to make for a good life-preserver in a nautical sense), or if I became entangled in brush or in getting in or out of a vehicle. Connecting the two is a plain old G.I. silent sling from the VietNam era. It's simple, it works, and comfortably carries the rifle in a "patrol carry", plus it will allow the rifle to hang vertically muzzle down for safety reasons. So far I like it.

[HeavyDuty]

Still more evolutionary changes to the 14.5" carbine I described here and here...

1. After I built a MOE midlength last year to be my main AR (see this out of date post), I found the 7" handguard on this carbine to be annoyingly restrictive for hand position. Due to this I decided to change the Omega out for a Centurion carbine cutout rail. The slightly longer rail resulted in *much* improved ergonomics for me.

2. I've really learned to like the ergonomics of the BAD-ASS selectors, so I changed out the RRA Star for one.

3. Another thing I learned from my MOE midlength was that I prefer Aimpoints over EOTechs. I switched out the XPS for a PRO in a Bobro absolute cowitness mount.

4. I was finding the TLR-1 was getting momentarily triggered by rubbing against my porn star physique when slung, so I switched it out for a G2 LED in an IWC Thorntail mount. This gives me the same basic configuration as I have on my MOE midlength. The Thorntail is fantastic - I'm running it all the way forward on the rail top.

Final configuration? I think yes, but I've thought that before...

[HeavyDuty]

And now, for something completely different. (For me, anyways.)

I've had the urge for quite some time to build a few simpler iron sight only ARs for purely recreational use. I wanted one to be a 14.5" midlength A2 with a retro feel, and the other to be a 20" MOE A4 with fixed rear sight. I tackled the midlength first.

• Lower receiver - McKay Enterprises (via NoDak Spud) with a RRA LPK and a standard six position receiver extension. I wanted a visually low key lower (no spiders, Punisher logos or Hazmat symbols), and the McKay is about as plain as you can find. I've had good luck with RRA LPKs over quite a few years and builds, and the Milspec sized RE came with the M&A CAR-type stock as did the H buffer.
  
  
• Upper receiver - an A2 with M4 cuts that I found used. I wanted M4 cuts to match the DD barrel extension. The barrel is a Daniel Defense 14.5" CHF with a BCM A2X that was permed by Adco.
  
  
• BCG and charging handle - BCM FA with a standard CH out of the parts box. I still consider BCM's BCGs to be the gold standard.
  
  
• Magazines - this AR will primarily be used with my stock of USGI 30 rounders.
  
  
• Iron Sights - standard A2 with a pinned front sight base for durability.
  
  
• Buttstock - M&A Parts "Fiberlite" type. This is the second time I've used these stocks, they are Milspec sized and well built. I wanted small and light with a retro vibe for this build.
  
  
• Pistol grip - A2 to fit with the retro theme.
  
  
• Handguards - standard A2. I think I'm one of the three or so people left that actually like A2 handguards. These ones (RRA, I think) are a little plump, but the set of smaller diameter ones I have creak like a mother. I will be looking for a set of Armalites to replace the current handguards.
  
  
• Slinging - a Boonie Packer 2P-TQA with one of their SFSM front mounts and M4 Adapter rear mounts. Simple. I'll probably have the SFSM stitched to the front of the 2P-TQA like I do with QD attachments - no need for a buckle up there.

[dlee25]

RRA upper with M4 profile barrel shrouded by a Troy/VTAC rail. The primary optic is the ACOG with GG&G BUIS. I just had it Cerakoted by LTM Refinishing. Good buisness, Joe Larson knows what he's doing and it was a good price and fast turn around. The FDE Cerakote is a good match to the Magpul furniture. My favorite upgrade is the RRA two stage trigger.