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  1. #1
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    300 Blackout Die Set

    I just bought a bunch of reloading equipment from a buddy of mine, and have everything i need to get started reloading and then some. With my Saker 762 sitting in jail, a 300BLK upper is next on my list of projects, and i'd like to get what i need to reload 300BLK to make the most of it (shooting suppressed, that is). But, being new to reloading in general, i want to make sure i get a quality set of dies to start with so i don't throw good money after bad buying crap dies. My press is an RCBS Rock Chucker. Anyone have any suggestions as to which die set i should go with for reloading 300 BLK? Or which die sets offer an overall higher level of quality, regardless of caliber (i've got a few more i'll be needing like .44 Mag, .357 Sig, and 40 S&W).

    Thanks in advance!
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  2. #2
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    Im still new to the blackout scene but am using a hornady 2 die set and the Lee crimp die. So far setting up dies and making some testers, all looks fine with the dies so far.

  3. #3
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    Cool, man. Thanks for the info! I suppose powder is something else i should be looking for. I'd have to check my notes, but i think i read that H110 is the cats meow for 300BLK (don't recall if that was for subs, supersonic, or both). Either way, H110 seems to be OOS, so i'll need to research an alternative.
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  4. #4
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    From my reading H110 is good only for supers. For subs I narrowed down to Reloader7, A1680 and 5744 in that order. Consensus is that 1680 reliable, but dirty. I only found 5744 available at local stores. But got lucky finding all four privately on MN Armslist.
    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

  5. #5
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    H110, 4227,lil gun,aa1680 are some of the popular powders

  6. #6
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    I use lee dies as they're cheap and they work great. Others have mentioned good powders. I like 1680 and lil gun personally. I have a fresh lb of 5744 that I have yet to test

  7. #7
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    I use the RCBS small base dies, lee factory crimp, and H110 for supers and Reloder7 for subs. I have other powders that work as well, but these are my goto never fail choices.
    -----------------------------------------------
    Jim
    "You can never have too many guns" - my wife's actual comment
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  8. #8
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    I also use the RCBS die set/Lee FCD combo and it's worked very well for me. I've never been able to get a taper crimp set up so that I was comfortable, hence the Lee crimp die. For supers, I prefer Alliant 300 MP over H110. I've found it to gives me a little higher velocity without pressure signs. I haven't really started loading subs as (before the recent change in MN suppressor law) I never planned on owning a can. I did try out a few and used A1680.
    Last edited by BC98; 11 September 2015 at 15:00. Reason: Grammar

  9. #9
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    This is some really good information. Thank you, gentlemen.
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  10. #10
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    Thirding the RCBS small-base dies/Lee factory crimp die combo.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the reply! I've ordered that exact combo, should be arriving early next week. I got about 10# of various powders from the guy I bought the reloading gear from. I need to go through it and see if any of them will be suitable for loading 300BLK. I'll probably wind up having to scour local shops to find what I need, or pay the ridiculous HAZMAT fee to get something shipped.
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  12. #12
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    I found some Reloader7 in stock today, so i grabbed my limit of 2 pounds. I guess i'm kind of putting the cart before the horse by purchasing all this stuff, considering my can isn't up for parole for at least another month and i need to build an upper. The barrel will most likely be a Noveske 10.5", which will wear the Trifecta brake that comes with my can. I'm leaning toward a Geissele Mk 8 9.5" in DDC for the rail. Optic TBD, but will most likely be something in the 1-4x variety. The Trijicon AccuPower 1-4x24 looks like a great piece of glass for the money. I should probably start a new thread about the upper since the die question was answered. Now to start researching loads. I've got some Barnes tipped 110gr TAC-TX and Hornady 208gr A-Max bullets inbound, along with a shitload of brass. Still need to buy some powder for the supers.
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  13. #13
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    I just got the Hornady 2 die set, I will add the FCD to the mix later on. In anticipation, I bought 2 pounds of 1680 when i found it, I'll take Jim's lead and look for some 7 too. Now i just need to find a deal on bullets.

  14. #14
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    for subs, look at SPS and their blems of Nosler 190g Custom Competitions. But if we keep telling our secrets, we'll never get them! LOL Seriously, when they have them in stock it makes sub loading much cheaper. The last time I bought I think it worked out to 19¢ a bullet? And the Re7 works very well with that weight, as does 1680

    cjd3, I was at Cabelas yesterday and they had a decent stock of H110
    -----------------------------------------------
    Jim
    "You can never have too many guns" - my wife's actual comment
    Alaska Fun

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the tip, Jim! That's considerably cheaper than the A-Max bullets i bought. I think they worked out to 27¢ a bullet for me. I found a couple hundred Hornady 150gr FMJBT and a hundred Hornady 155gr A-max bullets in the boxes of stuff my bought from my buddy. So i'll have plenty to play with as far as supers go (when i can get my mitts on some powder). But it's suppressed subs i'm primarily interested in. My buddy was loading .30-06 Springfield, .223, and a bunch of handgun cartridges, so as far as powder goes, none of what i got from him is suitable for 300BLK (at least it's not listed in either of the reloading manuals i got). Interestingly, or not, the Hornady manual says A1680 works best for subs while still cycling the action. No mention was made if that means it'll reliably cycle the action unsuppressed, or if that statement applies only to suppressed shooting. And annoyingly, neither of my manuals has any load data for Reloader7.
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