14.5" Upper Decisions

[Farva]

So I have a 14.5" BCM Middy with a pinned and welded Battlecomp muzzle device with a fixed front sight post. I want to change the hanguard out to a free float handguard, more than likely a KMR, and I am faced with a few choices and issues. As it sits right now it just has the standard Magpul MOE handguard. All options will include shaving down the FSP into a "lowpro" gas block.

One major issue that I will run into is the pinned muzzle device. In order to get the standard barrel nut off I will need to remove the FSP/gas block but that cant be removed until the muzzle device is removed. I have never attempted to remove a pinned and welded muzzle device so I don't know how easy (if possible at all) it would be to drill out the pin to avoid damaging the threads on the barrel or if the muzzle device needs to but cut and broken off.

My main goal here, besides getting everything removed, is to not damage the threads of the barrel as much as possible.


Another option I could go with is, IF the barrel will need to be re-threaded regardless of what I do, to chop the barrel down to 11.5” (I choose that length because I have been wanting an 11.5”). But once again I don’t know how reliable cutting a 14.5 down to a 11.5 would be.
What do you guys think? Do I stick with the 14.5” and follow one of the above steps or cut the barrel down? If I cut it what is your idea of a reliable length if 11.5” wouldn’t be functional?

Update: the 14.5" rifle is on the left

[GOST]

You will require a lot of work. You will have to drill the pin out of the muzzle device, shave down the FSP and then unpin the FSP for removal. A 14.5 middy cut down to 11.5 is not a good idea. My BCM middy will not lock back shooting Tula. I would not recommend shortening this barrel without opening the gas port, I don't recommend opening the gas port either so I would leave the barrel alone.

You may want to think about just shaving down your FSP and going with a Fortis REV II free float rail system. The Fortis uses a standard mil-spec barrel nut. If you used the Fortis you would only have to shave down your FSP. This rail system is available in both Keymod and M-LOK.

[Farva]

You will require a lot of work. You will have to drill the pin out of the muzzle device, shave down the FSP and then unpin the FSP for removal. A 14.5 middy cut down to 11.5 is not a good idea. My BCM middy will not lock back shooting Tula. I would not recommend shortening this barrel without opening the gas port, I don't recommend opening the gas port either so I would leave the barrel alone.

You may want to think about just shaving down your FSP and going with a Fortis REV II free float rail system. The Fortis uses a standard mil-spec barrel nut. If you used the Fortis you would only have to shave down your FSP. This rail system is available in both Keymod and M-LOK.

I figured there would be a lot of work involved. That being said Im not afraid of the work as im looking for this to be a little project anyway, my biggest concern was if I went the route of chopping the barrel would it be worth a crap. The fortis rail option is an attractive idea for sure as there would be little effort involved and I wouldn't have to destroy an expensive muzzle device

[Slippers]

The problem with chopping the barrel is the gas port being at the midlength position. An 11.5" midlength barrel would require a pretty big gas port to function, and probably be very temperamental.

[GOST]

The Fortis REV II 12" is 2.3 oz heavier and 0.04" larger in diameter than the 13" KMR.

[Farva]

The problem with chopping the barrel is the gas port being at the midlength position. An 11.5" midlength barrel would require a pretty big gas port to function, and probably be very temperamental.

just how I like my women and weather, temperamental

The Fortis REV II 12" is 2.3 oz heavier and 0.04" larger in diameter than the 13" KMR.

that negligible difference then, and the mlok rev 2 looks sexy

[RiverRat]

I agree with the folks discouraging you from cutting that barrel down. As as been pointed out, you'll have to open the port if you do. That's usually an iterative process, gradually increasing the port size. Unless you have an SBR lower to run function tests to know when to stop, it seems like a bad idea.

As far as removing the muzzle device, yeah it can be done. Getting centered on the pin through the weld is iffy. I suspect you'll want to drill out the part of the pin residing in the comp, spin the comp off, the clean up the remaining part of the pin when you have a clear view. Lots of work, little benefit unless you hate the Battlecomp.

You might look at the Samson/Rainier Evolution while you're checking out the Fortis. I've had zero problems with mine, through I know that some folks have (unproven?) concerns about the mounting system. There's another system out there that mounts like a Fortis, too. If I can remember who makes it, I'll drop in to mention it.

[Farva]

I agree with the folks discouraging you from cutting that barrel down. As as been pointed out, you'll have to open the port if you do. That's usually an iterative process, gradually increasing the port size. Unless you have an SBR lower to run function tests to know when to stop, it seems like a bad idea.

As far as removing the muzzle device, yeah it can be done. Getting centered on the pin through the weld is iffy. I suspect you'll want to drill out the part of the pin residing in the comp, spin the comp off, the clean up the remaining part of the pin when you have a clear view. Lots of work, little benefit unless you hate the Battlecomp.

You might look at the Samson/Rainier Evolution while you're checking out the Fortis. I've had zero problems with mine, through I know that some folks have (unproven?) concerns about the mounting system. There's another system out there that mounts like a Fortis, too. If I can remember who makes it, I'll drop in to mention it.

I appreciate it. I know Midwest Industries makes a few rails that utalizwe the standard barrel nut. I do have an SBR lower but if its going to be as much as hassle as everyone say it will be ill pass. I wasn't dead set on chopping the barrel I was just keeping an open mind to the idea. I like the battlecomp but wouldn't mind adding an AAC suppressor mount later on when I get my can.

[Mecha_Arms]

The Centurion Arms C4 rails also use the standard barrel nut.

[nijikon84]

Definitely do not chop that barrel down to 11.5", that would only give the barrel about 1.7" of dwell time.

Salient had a Rifle Length 14.5" which was only 1.3" of dwell time. Didn't work because their new barrels are Intermediate Length 14.5"s which have 2.7" of dwell time.

Rock Creek makes a 12.5" Middie, I personally wouldn't go lower than that. It could possibly render the barrel not shootable which would be a damn shame for a solid barrel.

[Uffdaphil]

I've tried the shaved FSP with Fortis and Centurian, but if doing again I would leave the FSP and use the cut-out extended C4 rail. In future I'm sticking with 16" or SBRs to avoid the hassles.*

[Former11B]

Would buying a new barrel, and saving that one for a later build be an option?

[Pyzik]

I was in your shoes last year.
14.5 LW BCM Middy, A2 sight, pinned comp.

Either go with a rail that utilizes a MILSPEC nut (and shave the FSB) or sell the barrel assembly and get what you want.

[alamo5000]

just how I like my women and weather, temperamental

Good thing g you enjoy that because if you didn't you'd be completely screwed.

[Farva]

Would buying a new barrel, and saving that one for a later build be an option?

This is always an option to. I just have this 14.5" rifle sitting around and I want to change it up a bit so I've been thinking of what I can do.