SLR rifleworks rail and adjustable gas block - possible issue(s)?

[voodoo_man]

How much you asking for the gas block?

PM me an offer.

[Slippers]

I had one of the original CMRs. Thanks for the info on the newer ones. Glad to know they opened it up a bit. I've always liked the CMR rails and the new mlok & keymod versions should be a big hit for them.

Sorry to derail Voodoo's thread slightly, but if you get a CMR m-lok be wary of trying to mount something directly under the gas block. The m-lok nut + protruding screw may come in contact, depending on the gas block and screw length. This applies to any m-lok rail, really.

[SINNER]

PM me an offer.

PM sent.

[BoilerUp]

Any chance the upper receiver face isn't perfectly square? It would be interesting to know if lapping the upper had any effect. On skinny rails it probably doesn't take much misalignment to make a difference.

I have a Geissele Super Gas Block on my 18" upper that I just swapped from an EMR to KMR-A. I had to dremel off the corners of the "ears" for the cross pin and will probably Dremel down the bottom over the set screws just a little. The SGB is not a good choice for super skinny rails like the KMR.

[alamo5000]

Sorry to derail Voodoo's thread slightly, but if you get a CMR m-lok be wary of trying to mount something directly under the gas block. The m-lok nut + protruding screw may come in contact, depending on the gas block and screw length. This applies to any m-lok rail, really.

This has been my experience as well. The reason why the SLR rails and and gas blocks work for me is because the overall length of the gas block is shorter than other gas blocks. The way they are set up for SLR is the positioning of the slots vs the gas block leaves your screws either slightly fore or slightly aft of the gas block...

That said it is a very tight fit on a number of levels not just accessories.

One of my rails and gas blocks has a paper thin margin between the screw that holds the wing on the gas block in and the rail.

It leaves almost no room for error when dimpling the barrel. If the jig is off even a little bit there could be contact.

One of my guns I had SLR dimple the barrel for me and it's a perfect fit. My other barrel is a Rainier barrel and the gas block has a minor tilt... like maybe 1 or 2mm and it causes contact. I would have to rotate my rail out of alignment some to correct for it. It causes minor contact under shooting conditions.

[voodoo_man]

When I get a chance tomorrow morning (getting on shift in an hour) I'll post up photos.

[mtdawg169]

Sorry to derail Voodoo's thread slightly, but if you get a CMR m-lok be wary of trying to mount something directly under the gas block. The m-lok nut + protruding screw may come in contact, depending on the gas block and screw length. This applies to any m-lok rail, really.

True, I've also run into the same thing on the MI mlok rails. That's part of the reason I'm still running keymod.

[mtdawg169]

Any chance the upper receiver face isn't perfectly square? It would be interesting to know if lapping the upper had any effect. On skinny rails it probably doesn't take much misalignment to make a difference.

I have a Geissele Super Gas Block on my 18" upper that I just swapped from an EMR to KMR-A. I had to dremel off the corners of the "ears" for the cross pin and will probably Dremel down the bottom over the set screws just a little. The SGB is not a good choice for super skinny rails like the KMR.

I'm sure this is blasphemy to some, but the to me, the Geissele block is only suited for use with a G rail and even then, I think there are better options. It's just too big for my tastes.

This has been my experience as well. The reason why the SLR rails and and gas blocks work for me is because the overall length of the gas block is shorter than other gas blocks. The way they are set up for SLR is the positioning of the slots vs the gas block leaves your screws either slightly fore or slightly aft of the gas block...

That said it is a very tight fit on a number of levels not just accessories.

One of my rails and gas blocks has a paper thin margin between the screw that holds the wing on the gas block in and the rail.

It leaves almost no room for error when dimpling the barrel. If the jig is off even a little bit there could be contact.

One of my guns I had SLR dimple the barrel for me and it's a perfect fit. My other barrel is a Rainier barrel and the gas block has a minor tilt... like maybe 1 or 2mm and it causes contact. I would have to rotate my rail out of alignment some to correct for it. It causes minor contact under shooting conditions.

Dumb question time, what is the purpose of the plate on the side of the SLR gas blocks?

[alamo5000]

Dumb question time, what is the purpose of the plate on the side of the SLR gas blocks?

That is where the gas gets released from. On the front it has a set screw that you screw in and out to open or close the gas flow. Around that wing is where it bleeds off the excess gas.

From what I've heard this design is so that you can 1. Take apart the gas block (which I haven't done yet) 2. to help manage carbon build up (if it was just a hole it would eventually clog up or whatever...at least so I've heard)

All around the edges of that 'plate' gas exits and you can see carbon build up after you've shot a while.

From what I've seen it's supposed to be able to be user maintained. Again though, I've never taken mine apart yet but I did have to spray one down with some CLP to break the front adjustment screw free but that's all the maintenance I have ever had to do on mine so far. I might take it apart just to see how it works.

[alamo5000]

Dumb question time, what is the purpose of the plate on the side of the SLR gas blocks?

[voodoo_man]

Gas block gone....rail is still available, who wants it pm me with offer.