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  1. #31
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    What's the issue with blue loctite?

  2. #32
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    It has a relatively low loosening temperature. I believe red loctite is around 550 degrees F, blue is 300. A suppressor can easily reach 700 degrees, breaking down the threadlocker and allowing your muzzle device to potentially come off with your can. For comparison, I believe Rocksett is good up to 1100 degrees(?).

  3. #33
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    I didn't put any stuff on my muzzle brake. What is the consensus about doing so?

  4. #34
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    I've used blue loctite before. The breakdown temperature hasn't really been an issue...I've found once it cures, even if it breaks loose, it provides a substantial amount of friction between the threads, sort of like putting teflon tape on the threads to prevent a direct thread can from backing off. It's on a 16" barrel, not shooting full auto, and as the can is aptly named, the rifle is set up as sort of a "Recce" rifle. It's my go-to, most frequently shot rifle, but I'm not lighting cigarettes off the can like some of my guys used to do off my SAW barrel.

    I do have red loctite, so if it's ever an issue, I'll just clean the threads off and re-apply. Thanks for the help

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    I didn't put any stuff on my muzzle brake. What is the consensus about doing so?
    I highly recommend it on a suppressor mount of any kind.

    If you shoot a lot through your can and don't have time to take it off before the can cools, it may lock up to the taper mount and when you go to unscrew it, there's a good chance you'll unscrew the mount from the barrel with it stuck in the can...I've had that happen before. Basically, I just tightened it back on as hard as I could and dumped a couple mags through it. After I could touch it, but while it was still hot (using nomex gloves), I was able to remove the can. I then loctite'd the muzzle device on. This can also prevent a slow loosening/backing off of the mount over time.

    Experience has also taught me to apply a small dab of anti-sieze or Frog Lube on the taper mount (not threads) for ease of removal after shooting

  6. #36
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    You should really use a drop of rocksett. It holds until 2000 degrees. It's also easy to remove when you want to remove it. I definitely would not use red loctite. Even after you apply heat, red loctite is a pain in the butt. It's labeled as "permanent" for a reason.

    And yes, nickel anti-seize makes a huge difference. It's the only way I can keep my Saker from carbon-welding every time I use it.
    Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com

  7. #37
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    OK so where do I get rocksett? I'm willing to give it a go.

  8. #38
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    I got my Rocksett at Brownell's
    -----------------------------------------------
    Jim
    "You can never have too many guns" - my wife's actual comment
    Alaska Fun

  9. #39
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    Yeah, Brownell's is where I got mine, too. And go easy with it. One drop is all you need if the threads are clean.
    Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com

  10. #40
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    For some reason my iPhone camera has been taking pictures that are really fuzzy/hazy looking.

    Guess I'll have to switch to my wife's DSLR


  11. #41
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    That's a beauty.
    There's no "Team" in F**K YOU!

  12. #42
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    We would recommend torque. 35ftlbs 1/2×28 45 for 5/8×24

    Red loctite over rocksett if a secondary mech is desired. Weve used rockcett at a point and just saw inconsistent performance. Sometimes no threadlocking sometimes immovable stuck on barrels when customers wanted a muzzle device replaced.
    Combat vet owned/operated company specializing in the design and manufacturing of industry leading silencers and firearms components. www.GriffinArmament.com PM for WEVO discount code.

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  13. #43
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    Update:

    My suppressor is still frickin' awesome. I would recommend it to anyone in the market. That said I learned a little something today through my own duhh screw up.

    I recently found a video from GA that I had never seen before and I had a complete duhhh moment.

    In my haste back when I got my suppressor I did not install my muzzle device correctly. I completely James'ed the thing! (which is pretty easy to do actually)



    If you can't tell from the picture the device has one side of it that is fatter than the other side of it. IE the top has more cut out grooves in the brake chamber than the bottom of it does. The fatter side has the GA logo on it --so naturally I just put the thing on not really knowing or paying attention to the difference.

    When I watched a relatively new GA youtube video... Basically I got my suppressor in the first batch that was using the mini brake and there wasn't much information out there yet... but still....



    The gun worked fine and the accuracy while suppressed was not effected at all in either orientation, but one thing that DID change was my POI shift. I had to rezero my rifle and by the time it was all said and done I had to adjust my scope around a couple of MOA.

    After doing it the correct way and looking back and my previous POI shift... now I figure my suppressed vs unsuppressed equates to approximately 1 MOA POI shift directly down. I will have to confirm that but that is about right. So while it didn't have any impact on my paper punching once zeroed and always shooting suppressed... but the orientation of the muzzle device did have a pretty significant impact on the initial shift.

    Even though I am opening myself up for lots of jokes at my expense it was an honest mistake, but a learning experience. It also goes to show that at least my suppressor is pretty precision machined with apparently a lot of engineering put into it...but also that repeatability matters. I would go so far as to say that the orientation of my (or any other suppressor) makes a great deal of difference. In other words mounting options make a big difference. So when buying a suppressor take that into account.
    Last edited by alamo5000; 13 February 2016 at 10:53.

  14. #44
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    Before you make fun of me too much though it's important to note that the orientation of the muzzle device was the first thing he went over in the FAQ

    Apparently I wasn't the only one that muffed that up.

  15. #45
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    Regarding Rocksett, make sure you clean the threads well and put a SMALL amount. I've heard one or two drops is all you need. A few months ago I bought a Surefire Socom brake for my .308 at the LGS and had them install it while I was there. I ended up parting out the gun and when I tried removing the brake it wouldn't budge. Turns out the gunsmith used more than half the tube of Rocksett and they had to soak it in oil for 3 days to break down the Rocksett and then tried to charge me another $20 to fix their own mistake. I took my gun, gave them a description of my truck and where I was headed, and told them if they wanted their $20 that badly they could report me to the police. I haven't been that pissed off in a LONG time and my friends and family are boycotting that shop due to more issues than just this one.

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