Here we go...

[Hmac]

Barrel is headspaced with a "master bolt" at the factory, bad mag has happened to other people before, I never bought into the gas ring story, but I observed it with this bolt, new from the dealer. Never said it wasn't ammo, but the stuff I have runs just dandy in a carbine gassed 14.5".

So it's not the barrel, not the magazine, not the bolt, not the gas rings or any part of the gas system -- because if the bolt is in battery then none of those things will cause click -> no bang. And it's not the ammo either because that ammo works fine in another rifle (whose gas system is irrelevant).

So, it's either the firing pin or the FCG, right? The firing pin just isn't hitting the primer hard enough.

[Joelski]

This is being replaced by a SSA very soon.

[Joelski]

I agree it's probably the ammo. Thanks for your ideas. I'm going to put more rounds through it and pay closer attention to what's going on. The other upper seemed to slightly catch a lug that would cause it to not slam home. This one feels like a Swiss watch the way everything fits together. Really hoping it was just a needs more rounds/cycling thing, or else I'm stuck with a thousand rounds of useless ammo.

[Hmac]

I agree it's probably the ammo. Thanks for your ideas. I'm going to put more rounds through it and pay closer attention to what's going on. The other upper seemed to slightly catch a lug that would cause it to not slam home. This one feels like a Swiss watch the way everything fits together. Really hoping it was just a needs more rounds/cycling thing, or else I'm stuck with a thousand rounds of useless ammo.

Why do you think the ammo might be defective if it works fine in your other rifle?

[Joelski]

So, it's NOT the ammo. How do I know? Odd story whichg leads me back to the people I asked originally. Hopefully this supplies more information.

Went back out today, Charge weapon, fire, BANG!

Pull trigger second time: nothing.

Drop mag, eject unfired round and here is what I saw:

The two light strikes are on the left, and are only a result of the bolt chambering the round. I repeat, the trigger did not release! The casing on the right is a properly fired round, showing evidence of a normal primer strike.

[IMG][/IMG]

For shits and giggles, I decided to cycle the safety on and back off. Guess what? yep, BANG!

Pull trigger again, hammer does not drop, no bang.

But, cycle the safety on and back off: BANG!

This repeated on and on, Relaibably. It was repeatable. Therefore, its not the ammo. It fires when I consciously decide for it to, I just there to be fewer steps for a semi automatic rifle of such pedigree.

So it is the FCG, eh? I have a BAD-CASS 45 degree safety and a DSG mil-spec trigger in a Rainier Ultra Match Gen 3 billet lower that's allegedly made to accomodate the short throw levers. Spring issue? Where do I go from here? Hope my gazillion dollar setup is imporved by this new trigger I bought for it?

[Dstrbdmedic167]

As someone else mentioned make sure the springs are correctly installed and not binding. Try another FCG if you have one and go from there

[BoilerUp]

if I understand you correctly, you pull the trigger but the hammer doesn't contact the firing pin. If that's the case, then besides swapping out your FCG I'd try swapping out the safety selector, too. I read on the interwebs where out-of-spec safeties caused issues.

[Joelski]

if I understand you correctly, you pull the trigger but the hammer doesn't contact the firing pin. If that's the case, then besides swapping out your FCG I'd try swapping out the safety selector, too. I read on the interwebs where out-of-spec safeties caused issues.

That's the conclusion I'm coming to. Hoping UWOne, or Gost or one of the other really knowledgeable guys on here will advise me who i should contact. If trigger, it should go away once I get the Geissele installed, but I'm not sure its a spring issue so much as a tolerance issue with the safety.

Has anybody else had issues with the short throw BAD's and CMT's lowers that are made for such safety levers?

And yes; if it's so obscure it defies reasoning, it can happen to me! :)

[Dstrbdmedic167]

I'd try the trigger first but if you have issues still here is BAD's contact info.

Battle Arms Development
702-802-3588 or sales@battlearmsdevelopment.com

[Dstrbdmedic167]

Also for the record I have a 90* cass that is a little finicky. It releases fine but feels like it's trying to bind when returning to safety. It works but it isn't a solid click both ways. Haven't really bothered me or caused issues but food for thought I supposed...

[Joelski]

Thanks brother, I appreciate the help! Thanks again, everybody who has replied. Honestly, I should have just spent more time with the ole diagnostic ballcap on, but I'm plenty humble enough to yell for help. I tried to find an issue similar to read about, but came up nada.

[El Cid]

Glad you were able to diagnose the issue. Did you install the trigger and safety? If it was me, I would remove them and reinstall them to see if that fixes it. I don't know your experience level, but Brownells has videos on YouTube that are very helpful. I use them every time I build a new one. My last one is a CMT lower and BAD-ASS 90 degree ambi. No issues.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

[Joelski]

Gonna yank that safety out and inspect it when the new trigger comes. I'm really hoping its an out of spec trigger casting causing the safety to malfunction. It makes a really nice clicky noise when going between settings.

[El Cid]

Gonna yank that safety out and inspect it when the new trigger comes. I'm really hoping its an out of spec trigger casting causing the safety to malfunction. It makes a really nice clicky noise when going between settings.

Does it pass a function check? I've gotten to where I do them without thinking about it anytime I assemble an upper and lower or put the slide back on a Glock.

[Joelski]

Yep. The problem occurs with reset after firing. Everything passes function testing at each stage of the assembly, but I can't simulate that part.