1911 Front checkering or ?

[mustangfreek]

Lol...watching football sitting here and playing around and thinking about something i pondered before..

Can't stand the smooth face on my 1911 grips, gets slippery in any bit of weather and just want a firm grip..Tried the grip tape but it looks ghetto and kinda works..lol

So who here has layed around and checkered their front grip? Also what LPI and was it to much or not enough?
Got a good grasp on it just want to hear if anyone hear has played around and your conclusion and and pointers..

Sending it out is just to much $$ and I'm a DIY'er..Unless you know of any good 1911 smiths in the WA area that do this stuff for a reasonable price

[DeviantLogic]

I've got some Hogue wraparound grips on mine. Love 'em. Might try that before checkering.

[mustangfreek]

Ya tried those a while back they seem cheesy and always a somewhat sticky feeling to them..

[schambers]

Checkering or serrating a 1911 requires files and a jig specifically set up for the task. It's not rocket science but it you've never worked on a 1911 before, or if you don't already have the necessary tools, it would be cheaper and you would probably get better results by sending it somewhere.

I find that 25lpi is the biggest you can go and still get useful traction. Anything bigger than that and you are kind of wasting your time.

25 and 30 lpi feel very similar to me and 30 looks more refined to my eye. That being said, the only time I would spec out something with 30lpi the front strap or trigger guard is if I was going to get the MSH in 30lpi at the same time, as 30lpi parts are not super common, and having that size inconsistency irks me.

Also, lpi does not always necessarily correlate to comfort or traction. 20lpi can tear your hand up if it's left to sharp, and 30lpi can be useless if the checkering is smoothed down too much... Hope that makes sense

[Former11B]

I've got some Hogue wraparound grips on mine. Love 'em. Might try that before checkering.

This!! The front grips on two of my 1911s are checkered (Kimbers) and when I shoot a lot of normal to hot ammo, my fingers start getting chewed up. It's a non traditional look, but the Hogue wraparound made them much much more comfortable in terms of covering the checkering as well as a "fitted" feel.

[Battle Cock]

I've never tried it, but I know guys stipple 1911 frontstraps. You just need a punch and a hammer and some sort of technique if you want it to come out looking any good.

[mustangfreek]

Thanks for the info any and all helps, have worked on about everything to some extent I feel I could do this but the LPI choice is bugging me

20 LPI is deeper and longer to cut but can be sanded down somewhat, 30 is harder to do I hear with being fiber and is the most people will go it seems like.

25 LPI files are not to common without paying about twice the price for the file..

Humm...

Checkering or serrating a 1911 requires files and a jig specifically set up for the task. It's not rocket science but it you've never worked on a 1911 before, or if you don't already have the necessary tools, it would be cheaper and you would probably get better results by sending it somewhere.

I find that 25lpi is the biggest you can go and still get useful traction. Anything bigger than that and you are kind of wasting your time.

25 and 30 lpi feel very similar to me and 30 looks more refined to my eye. That being said, the only time I would spec out something with 30lpi the front strap or trigger guard is if I was going to get the MSH in 30lpi at the same time, as 30lpi parts are not super common, and having that size inconsistency irks me.

Also, lpi does not always necessarily correlate to comfort or traction. 20lpi can tear your hand up if it's left to sharp, and 30lpi can be useless if the checkering is smoothed down too much... Hope that makes sense

[Stone]

http://www.ericwesselman.com/store/1911.html Or the old stand by, skateboard tape...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZvhpLzzg-0 Piece of cake.

http://www.m1911.org/checkering.htm

[Jerry R]

Another option is Wilson Combat - they have checkered frontstraps that fit under the grip panels for $10 Blue or Stainless, available here Frontstraps-Wilson Combat

I have used them, not a bad choice for the money. Shown below on my old Combat Commander

[Army203]

Lol...watching football sitting here and playing around and thinking about something i pondered before..

Can't stand the smooth face on my 1911 grips, gets slippery in any bit of weather and just want a firm grip..Tried the grip tape but it looks ghetto and kinda works..lol

So who here has layed around and checkered their front grip? Also what LPI and was it to much or not enough?
Got a good grasp on it just want to hear if anyone hear has played around and your conclusion and and pointers..

Sending it out is just to much $$ and I'm a DIY'er..Unless you know of any good 1911 smiths in the WA area that do this stuff for a reasonable price

Send it to Dave at South Ridge Arms in Orting. Before leaving WA he was the last local 1911 smith I trusted. He does great work https://www.facebook.com/Southridge-...4588198887843/

You can check out some of his work on FB. He doesn't charge a lot for the level of work he does, plus he is a super awesome dude. As for doing it yourself....not unless you have a gun you hate.

[Battle Cock]

Send it to Dave at South Ridge Arms in Orting. Before leaving WA he was the last local 1911 smith I trusted. He does great work https://www.facebook.com/Southridge-...4588198887843/

You can check out some of his work on FB. He doesn't charge a lot for the level of work he does, plus he is a super awesome dude. As for doing it yourself....not unless you have a gun you hate.

His Snakeskin frontstrap work is gorgeous!

[mustangfreek]

Thanks Jerry, seen those and not sure my OCD could handle those.. lol

Thanks Army , that was the guy I was thinking of..

I'm not sure on this, need a few files and tools I don't have...then $$ for Cerakote or cheaper finish.. Its stupid as I got a citadel 9mm and went to remove the stupid skateboard tape and holy hell they used some kind of adhesive or something, so it destroyed the bluing in that area..So trying to clean it up has turned into a dumb situation now..

[Army203]

Thanks Jerry, seen those and not sure my OCD could handle those.. lol

Thanks Army , that was the guy I was thinking of..

I'm not sure on this, need a few files and tools I don't have...then $$ for Cerakote or cheaper finish.. Its stupid as I got a citadel 9mm and went to remove the stupid skateboard tape and holy hell they used some kind of adhesive or something, so it destroyed the bluing in that area..So trying to clean it up has turned into a dumb situation now..

Skate tape works though. VZ sells it cut to fit the frame on the 1911 and not look ghetto. If it is a citadel 1911 that isn't a gun I would feel bad about cutting my teeth on. Once you get the tools find something to practice on before you start on your frame? scrap metal that won't eat up your files.

[din]

Bluing shouldn't come off with the grip tape. I've been using Black Magic on my Range Officer for the last three years with no damage to bluing. Sending a Citadel off for custom work is...insane. You'll end up spending more than the pistol is worth, but if you're a DIY guy buy the guide and some files and knock yourself out. Unless there's some emotional attachment you should sell the Citadel, buy a 9mm RO, and go nuts. I know Stan Chen just opened his books back up for some a la carte work (he's still not taking full house builds), and some other places will do machining work as long as it's not a full build too. I like at 20 LPI checkering or the golf-ball texture a few places do. 30 LPI isn't grippy enough.