Results 421 to 435 of 475
Thread: SMOS Build Thread
-
14 March 2016, 19:38 #421
Thanks, guys! Just what I needed!
Graphic Designer
Instagram: @EO3actual
-
14 March 2016, 20:32 #422Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Posts
- 76
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0
I REALLY wish SMOS made a 10.5" GFY rail.. I'm going to have to get an EraThr3 10.5, which SMOS makes, but it's overpriced and I don't want the open top.
-
14 March 2016, 20:37 #423
I think I'm going to try out the 12" rail on a 13.7" upper. Jumping on the cool guy wagon here But really, I've wanted to go as short as possible without SBR'ing, and a 13.7" with a BE 249F or 249S pinned/welded makes that possible. Not really a fan of the KX3/5 on a 13.7 just because it's awfully heavy to have out front. Makes it kind of awkward to maneuver to me.
Graphic Designer
Instagram: @EO3actual
-
14 March 2016, 21:25 #424
SMOS Build Thread
The 9" GFY rail was supposed to be delivered last Tuesday but UPS lost it. SMOS shipped out a replacement Friday and it arrived today! How's that for service!
The 9" is actually called the SMR556 9.188 SR. The actual length is engraved on the rail itself, just like on the 12". I took a measurement for those of you confused by decimals.
The weight of the rail, nut and hardware comes to 8.64oz.
Unlike the 13.6" GFY rail that shipped previously, this one came with an anti-rotation pin.
For those who complained on the loose fit of the rail over the barrel nut on the GFY rail, this one's tolerance are very snug. Same barrel nut but sans the Erath3 logo. I hope they release a lightweight nut for this.
I'm mounting to a 10.3 Ballistic Advantage barrel. Here's the gap on the end with and without muzzle device. The barrel nut is not fully torqued yet as I'm not ready to finish this upper.
And a full body shot. Screws are not inserted because nut is not timed.
I'm very pleased. I've had this part of the project on hold since last fall when Chris expected the shorter rails available by Christmas. Glad to have it all in hand now. More details on the project in the coming months.
-
14 March 2016, 21:38 #425Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Posts
- 76
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0
Ok everybody, what size crows foot wrench do I need on the 12.0?
1 3/16?
My 1 1/16s too small and my 1 5/16s too big!
And my 12.0 didn't come with the AR pin. I'm having to steal one from an NSR. How was the AR pin packaged? Ziplock somewhere in the tube?
-
14 March 2016, 21:42 #426
-
14 March 2016, 22:18 #427
-
15 March 2016, 03:13 #428
A 30mm will also work as there is only a .006" difference between the two. I ordered one off amazon for ~$10 as I couldn't find any local retailer that had a 30mm or 1 3/16 by itself or in a set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YK9QB8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't forget when you are running a crowd foot on a torque wrench you want it 90 degrees to the handle. If you have it in line you change the lever arm of the wrench and will not get an accurate torque value. Realistically between 30-80 ft-lbs it may not make a difference, always best to be accurate though.
-
15 March 2016, 05:37 #429Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Posts
- 76
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0
-
15 March 2016, 05:58 #430
-
15 March 2016, 06:09 #431
-
15 March 2016, 16:02 #432
Well I got the 1/4"-28 nylon tipped set screws in and they did not thread down into the hole. Diameter is correct but I believe they are 1/4"-20 Coarse thread and not the fine thread like the grip screw. Strange they would tool up another tap to thread this separate hole when it is right next to a fine threaded hole.
-
15 March 2016, 16:36 #433
SMOS Build Thread
I bought this guy instead.
Powerbuilt 644134 Metric 30mm Polished Combination Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QO9FRU..._nXj6wbW0GBK9D
Only issue is you can't really get a torque reading that I know of.
-
15 March 2016, 17:21 #434
If you want to get real fancy you can measure from the centerline of rotation of the open end lugs to the center of the closed end wrench. With the wrench parallel to the floor, fashion a crude hanger from some wire and hang a known weight from the wrench. Multiply the lbs of weight by the length you measured converted from inches to feet. Boom... ft-lbs of torque. If you don't have weights but do have a scale you can use that same length then stand on the scale. Push down on the parallel wrench until you subtract 30-80 lbs from your weight on the scale.. boom known torque.
McGuyver would be proud.
-
15 March 2016, 17:40 #435Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Location
- St Louis, MO
- Posts
- 35
- Downloads
- 0
- Uploads
- 0