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Thread: Dry lube
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10 January 2017, 06:06 #16
I've been using Slip 2000 since i got my first can, and i haven't had need to use anything else. I can definitely see how motor oil would be a nightmare shooting suppressed.
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10 January 2017, 09:46 #17
If you applied enough lube to make a difference shooting suppressed you are doing it wrong. Far too much lubrication if it makes any difference beyond the first shot. I'm a lefty and pretty much only shoot surpressed anymore so I am hyper sensitive to even different types of powders.
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10 January 2017, 09:56 #18
I lube *very* lightly for my guns that are always shot suppressed. Otherwise it gets blown everywhere, makes a mess.
Will - Owner of Arisaka LLC - http://www.arisakadefense.com
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10 January 2017, 10:02 #19
Same. Apply to preheated surfaces and wipe off all but a film. I find different powders much worse than even when I overlube a new weapon for its first few magazines. Elite Iron recommends pouring Froglube into their cans before each use and that is a big stinky cloud the first few rounds. That damn fill Silencerco uses in their ammo is like eating sand with some weapons. Lol
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10 January 2017, 18:43 #20
It's the natural Impurities in Dino oil that make it impractical for shooting. Pure synthetic lubricant, free of esters, paraffin and detergents, but with long chain polymers work as well as anything and plate surfaces on heating up. I've yet to A/B it with slip 2k, but I've also not effective up any expensive firearms or engines. Until we have "permanent" lube, it's all gonna fly off under those forces.
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10 January 2017, 19:27 #21
I don't do motor oil, it's plain messy. I know local guys who swear by it, but then again they'd be lucky to shoot once or twice a year, so I'm sure it does well for them.
I'm still a plain Slip2000 guy. Doesn't leave a huge mess and is light... and affordable.
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10 January 2017, 20:43 #22
Aeroshell barrel nut grease for the taper mount. Slip2K or Weaponshield for BCG quick lube at the range. Slip EWL30 at home if going directly into safe- doesn't run as much.
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10 January 2017, 21:08 #23
Don't think I'll be making a switch to dry lube anytime soon. I like oil and grease for lube...you know how much you've put on and when it's dry or dirty. The kind of oil/grease really depends on which firearm is being lubed, what part needs lubrication, and what time of year it is. Handguns usually get Gun Butter oil + grease. AR's get Wilson Combat Universal or "Grease" (more like a thick oil). Bolt guns get Hoppes or whatever I have in my range bag. Typically use Shooter's Choice grease for trigger components. If temperatures are low, I try to use a thinner oil...warmer temperatures get a thicker oil.
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10 January 2017, 23:34 #24
Look at you, getting all scientific and whatnot.
I work with a guy that uses automotive wheel bearing grease (the cheap $2 for a 5# tub crap) for lubing everything firearm related. I once bought a Glock from him that took me forever to get clean and grease free.
Slip 2000 EWL has been my go to for years. I've found a little goes a long way using Slip 2000 EWL, so even a small bottle will last a while. I bought a big 16oz bottle for maybe $25 on sale, so cost over time to use a quality lube on my weapons is practically nothing. And like you said, it doesn't leave a big mess when cleaning. And as someone else mentions, it's non-toxic, which is a bonus as well."It's time to start slapping people." - George Carlin
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11 January 2017, 02:45 #25
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16 March 2017, 13:14 #26
Dry lube
After the disaster of Frog Lube I looked into making my own. I use a 45/45/10 of ATF, gear oil, and Seafoam. Now I practically got a lifetime supply. I had some Royal Purple from when I had an RX-8 just laying around. If you got some stubborn carbon try some straight Seafoam.
I've yet to consider dry lube because I was going suppressed and heard it's a no-go.
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