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  1. #16
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    Here is a article I just wrote for Guns & Tactics on this very light. I am using the KM 45 degree mount but they also make a rail mount version. I run it at 11 also, this way when shooting around barriers or using the junkyard technique the light clears first with no splash back. The WML was designed with operators in mind.

    http://www.gunsandtactics.com/the-hs...nd-inforce-wml

    I have another write up based on the WML and the ideas I mentioned above as far as mounting and use goes. It won'tbe on G&T but will be on my site as well as posted in the forums.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric View Post
    You can't go wrong with the SF lights, but honorable mention goes to the Streamlight TLR1 HL. At 630 lumens, there's output to spare. I've heard some comments that nobody needs that much output, but especially in an outdoor setting, I've found that to be inaccurate. They are commonly found around $130. They are more prone to accidental activation that some other designs, so I might try one with a remote pressure switch as well.
    I don't keep a light mounted on any of my rifles, but I have a TLR-1s that I keep in the safe and can mount on my Walther or at the 12:00 position on my SBR. I also have a Brownell's light on a VLTOR QD mount.

  3. #18
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    I like my inforce feels really natural. Not sure how it holds up haven't got to use it to much. Have a surefire x300 on my pistol and it's really bright.

  4. #19
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    I've been using the Haley WML for some time now with a Thorntail mount. It's a good setup. The light is a little weird sometimes however, it seems to flicker every so often, like it's about to go out - but it never does. I suspect I have an early model where they hacked the electronics to get 200 lumens out and it wasn't 100% ready for prime time ... still, it works.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoxyDave View Post
    I've been using the Haley WML for some time now with a Thorntail mount. It's a good setup. The light is a little weird sometimes however, it seems to flicker every so often, like it's about to go out - but it never does. I suspect I have an early model where they hacked the electronics to get 200 lumens out and it wasn't 100% ready for prime time ... still, it works.
    How do you like the Thorntail mount? I have a Thorntail on order with IWC. I plan to use one with my SCAR to mount a WML to the top rail.

  6. #21
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    Kind of expensive for what it does, but it's nice that you can dial in exactly where you want the light. It puts a WML at a good angle for easy activation.

  7. #22
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    Dec 2012
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    For those running Geissele SMR rails with Surefire Scouts, you might want to check out Geissele's mounts.

    http://geissele.com/accessories/supe...mount-kit.html

  8. #23
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    For a gun that's intended as and indoor gun, I like everything about the Surefire x300.

    For the mythological "general purpose" I'm all about the two cell Scout light, although I've never had to pay for one so the price may well be a non-starter.

    Either way, I'm a big fan of putting lights on some sort of QD mounts. I don't want to go running around with a light Ina class or match if I don't have to.
    WWW.TACTICALYELLOWVISOR.NET

  9. #24
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    I am also playing with the Rosch SL1, which I like in concept but am having some struggles getting it zeroed because it doesn't have clicks in the adjustment.

    http://www.roschworks.com/
    WWW.TACTICALYELLOWVISOR.NET

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    I am also playing with the Rosch SL1, which I like in concept but am having some struggles getting it zeroed because it doesn't have clicks in the adjustment.

    http://www.roschworks.com/
    Rob can you keep us up to date on that? Right now the SL1 is on my short "To buy" list.
    -One Nation, Under God

    -"The bad news is time flies. The good news is you're the pilot." ~ Michael Althsuler

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    I am also playing with the Rosch SL1, which I like in concept but am having some struggles getting it zeroed because it doesn't have clicks in the adjustment.

    http://www.roschworks.com/
    Yes, agreed. I ended up using a paint pen on the sight adjustment tool that lines up with one of the flats on the sight post to make it a bit easier to tell how far I was adjusting it.

    I've had my SL1 since it was released. It works great, is plenty bright and durable through minor abuse. I've been using more and more magnified optics lately, so I may end up going back to a surefire scout, but otherwise no complaints.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slippers View Post
    Yes, agreed. I ended up using a paint pen on the sight adjustment tool that lines up with one of the flats on the sight post to make it a bit easier to tell how far I was adjusting it.

    I've had my SL1 since it was released. It works great, is plenty bright and durable through minor abuse. I've been using more and more magnified optics lately, so I may end up going back to a surefire scout, but otherwise no complaints.

    The problem I'm having with the adjustment is that sometimes the wrench isn't even making contact with he flats, so I can turn the wrench and watch an index mark but it may or may not be turning the post.

    I'm sure that most of my problems are user error, but when I have other options that don't have those issues it's hard to make a change.

    I've had other issues with mine, like the front end (I've been told it's not then"bezel" but that's what I would call it) coming loose in my bad and not allowing the batteries to make contact. I think it's great in theory but right now it's causing me to invest in too much fiddle-fart when I have other, albeit standalone, options that give me the results I want, especially the ability to remove the light from the gun entirely.
    WWW.TACTICALYELLOWVISOR.NET

  13. #28
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    Your post made me curious about the bezel so I just went and checked mine. It was very loose. I suspect another day at the range would have resulted in it becoming inoperable. I've never taken the light apart, so either it wasn't tightened very well when shipped from Rosch, or it loosened up from the last few hundred rounds. Hmmm!

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