New guy looking for advice on his first build

**Stickman** · 29 January 2010, 10:35

Originally Posted by tac40

Go with Oakley eyeware, hard case-you're spending alot of money, get a good sling and use BCM charging handle #4-medium. Sounds good, get plenty of ammo and have fun, take some carbine courses

Good eye wear and hearing protection is a must, and is well worth mentioning. WeaponEvolution.com and Military Times are starting a review of new eyewear, but its a project that is going to take months to complete. I'll post more info about it in its own thread.

**Devilphish** · 29 January 2010, 20:16

Originally Posted by Stickman

Good eye wear and hearing protection is a must, and is well worth mentioning. WeaponEvolution.com and Military Times are starting a review of new eyewear, but its a project that is going to take months to complete. I'll post more info about it in its own thread.

Ooh, I look forward to this review being a full-time eye wear user.

emilio - looks like a good start and you're certainly in the right place for good opinions!

**niner** · 29 January 2010, 11:26

Just a note, I picked up a 16" DD mid length from BCM not too long ago, it was hammer forged, chromolined everything I wanted in a bbl. I think BCM pinned the front sight with the gas tube on it though (maybe even came from DD this way), which again is what I wanted. When I got mine, BCM also had the stripped DD midlength bbls also.

I am still piecing mine together so I cannot say how it shoots yet

, there is a gunshow this weekend so I hope to pick up what I need to finish it off.

**missiontrails** · 29 January 2010, 19:08

That is of course a decent enough barrel. However, if you want to add some uniqueness and durability, look at the Centurion barrels (Noveske N4), Rainier sometimes has them, and there is a guy on AR15.com that had a few new ones for sale. The rail- I would strongly consider the DD Lite over the Larue.
I like the MEGA uppers and lowers, they are machined well, and have a good Teflon finish. If you look around, you can sometimes find upper/lower matched sets in the forged models also.

**SDDuc996** · 29 January 2010, 20:16

Originally Posted by missiontrails

That is of course a decent enough barrel. However, if you want to add some uniqueness and durability, look at the Centurion barrels (Noveske N4), Rainier sometimes has them, and there is a guy on AR15.com that had a few new ones for sale. The rail- I would strongly consider the DD Lite over the Larue.
I like the MEGA uppers and lowers, they are machined well, and have a good Teflon finish. If you look around, you can sometimes find upper/lower matched sets in the forged models also.

+1 on the DD Lite. A bit more expensive, but I love the way they lock up and feel, not to mention the continuous top rail. I'm a fan of DD products and believe their rails to be one of the best.

**Emilio84** · 29 January 2010, 20:47

Gator - Centurion looks nice. The issue is that this build started with the $169 version of the DD m4 barrel (on sale at bcm) to the $230 BCM midlength.. to the $299 BCM CHF... then to the DD CHF for around the same price. I may honestly just go back to the std BCM midlength barrel as that might just be the right mix between cost and performance for me. Still undecided though.

SDDuc996 - I'll definitely be giving DD a call about their barrels.

Stickman - Any specifc reccomendations for eye and ears for a guy who already wears glasses? I have an astigmatism though so I can't always get lenses made for frames with high amounts of curve to the lens. Budget for ear protection is ~100 or less for active electronic muffs if possible.

As for the rail system I might have to give DD another look. The reason I liked larue's rails is the mounting system not allowing the barrel nut to be loosened by any torquing of the rail by a VFG or other attachment. One thing to consider for this build is that once the FH is pinned on the barrel nut and gas block will be pretty much on the barrel forever so I am trying to make predict my needs down the line and also make sure every part of the upper (gb/area under rails/barrel nut area) is accessible without the removal of the flash hider/gas block.

**Gator** · 29 January 2010, 22:27

In that case, you should definitely give DD a look. Their FF rails mount and dismount fairly easily which would allow for easier maintenance. They even have 2pc Freefloats to offer with 3 different mounting options. Mounting is solid too, esp on their Lite and RIS II rails, as they have their own proprietary anti-rotational systems.
That said, I recommend the M4A1 RIS II. Long enough for your needs , is 2 pc and probably the most solid mounting system amog all their rails from what I can see off their website. -- it has locking nubs at the rear of the mounting ring which prevent rotation on top of the protruding screws. -- someone please correct me if this feature is also offered on Lite Rails.
https://www.danieldefense.com/?page=...&product_id=17

**Emilio84** · 29 January 2010, 22:41

Whats the difference between the RIS II rail and their Lite Rails? The only thing called out for the RIS system is the M203 mounting it also appears to be 2 piece. Is there a reason (other than ease of install/removal) that I would want a 2 piece system? All conventional wisdom tells me that a single piece system will weigh less and be more rigid.

**SDDuc996** · 29 January 2010, 23:36

Gator, the RIS rails lock up the same as the Lite Rails. SOLID.

Brent M from DD gave me one of the versions we use on our 10" MK18 uppers. It's so nice.

Emilio, that's pretty much the main reason for the RIS II's design. For installation of a 203. They're nice rails to be sure. In fact, I'm sure your gun would look cool as hell with one on there. Also, you don't have to worry about them coming loose.

Did I mention they are SOLID?

As for the difference in the weight of the two, you're looking at maybe 2-3oz.
Either way you'll be happy with Daniel Defense.

**Emilio84** · 29 January 2010, 23:46

SDDuc996 - So both rails are 1 piece? Either way I am most likely going with the 12in DD Lite rails. BCM carries them for $332 a set which is only $33 more than the Larue 12 and I am definitely sold on the continuous rail feature (i will eventually be mounting an optic) and they to be very popular.

EDIT - First post has been edited to reflect changes. I will be posting pictures of parts as they roll in.

**SDDuc996** · 29 January 2010, 23:54

No the Lite rail is one piece. (Except for the locking ring that you'll have to mount behind their barrel nut.) The rail itself is oe piece.

The RIS II is two piece. Loosen the screws and pull the bottom off for mounting a 203.

Though the RIS is 2 piece to the 1 piece Lite rail, the difference is still a few ounces.

**Emilio84** · 29 January 2010, 23:58

Gotcha, that makes more sense now. I think I am going to stick with the lite though as I am really not a huge fan of the FDE anodizing, will never be mounting a 203, and the Lite is $47 cheaper.

**Gator** · 31 January 2010, 00:56

Not to hijack the thread or anything... I just want to clarify NY state laws on stocks... Can you have a collapsible stock pinned to make it legal or does the whole system have to be non-adjustable to begin with?
THe reason I ask is because I figured, rather than having it pinned (again, if allowed at all), you could take out the horizontal pin that allows the lever on the CTR to engage the spring for adjusting. I tried to figure it out as best I could and it appears to be more difficult to put it back in than to push out a pin to prevent adjustment. Whether or not it's legal for states that require adjustable stock pinning is an entirely different thing.
Just a thought that popped into my mind.

**4SRecon** · 31 January 2010, 08:18

Originally Posted by Gator

Not to hijack the thread or anything... I just want to clarify NY state laws on stocks... Can you have a collapsible stock pinned to make it legal or does the whole system have to be non-adjustable to begin with?
THe reason I ask is because I figured, rather than having it pinned (again, if allowed at all), you could take out the horizontal pin that allows the lever on the CTR to engage the spring for adjusting. I tried to figure it out as best I could and it appears to be more difficult to put it back in than to push out a pin to prevent adjustment. Whether or not it's legal for states that require adjustable stock pinning is an entirely different thing.
Just a thought that popped into my mind.

PM sent, I don't want to go off topic either.

**Emilio84** · 1 February 2010, 20:52

Ok so I just ordered my ACE Entry Stock. If its too short I'll give a DPMS 1" stock extension a go. Here is a pic comparing the full length ACE vs the Entry length with 1" extension. All that combined with the possibility of using the 1" rubber butt pad if I need it (stock is .5") should give me a significant amount of adjustability.

Oh, and my lower got to my FFL today. I will be picking it up tomorrow after work or weds during my lunch break.

Thread: New guy looking for advice on his first build

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